If there is one day trip you should do from Tbilisi, it’s this one. A full day on the Georgian Military Highway, winding north through the Caucasus Mountains towards the Russian border, is one of those experiences that stays with you long after you’ve gone home. Dramatic landscapes, ancient fortresses, mountain monasteries and more khinkali than you strictly need. Here’s how we did it.
Also read: Tbilisi City Guide: Best Things to Do in Georgia’s Capital
The Georgian Military Highway: A Brief History
The Georgian Military Highway has existed since before the 1st century BCE, used for centuries by traders, invaders, pilgrims and kings as one of the only viable routes through the wall of mountains separating Europe and Asia. The Romans knew it, the Persians used it, and medieval Georgian kings built fortresses along it.
In 1783 about 800 Russian soldiers converted the highway into a proper carriage road. Its current name reflects its use as a military supply route by the Russian Empire after annexing Georgia in 1801.
The road runs for just over 200 kilometres from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz in Russia. It passes through narrow gorges squeezed between colossal mountains and reaches nearly 2,400 metres at the Jvari Pass. And is dominated by the massive Mount Kazbek whose 5,047 metre peak straddles the continental divide.
Today the highway is a major trade route between Georgia and Russia, which explains the extraordinary sight of kilometres of trucks waiting at the mountain tunnels and the border crossing. It’s also one of the most popular day trips in the whole of the Caucasus, and for very good reason.
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The Day at a Glance
- Book a tour: Public transport is scarce past Gudauri, and the road is pretty scary to drive alone, so you best book a tour
- Start: I Heart Tbilisi sign, Vakhtang Gorgasali Square
- Stops: Zhinvali Reservoir viewpoint, Ananuri Fortress, wine and khinkali lunch at Restaurant Gorda, Gudauri viewpoint and honey tasting, Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, Gergeti Trinity Church (Kazbegi)
- End: Back in Tbilisi, in the evening
- Duration: Full day, roughly 11 to 12 hours
How to Get There: Tour, Public Transport or Self-Drive?
There are three ways to do this trip, and they suit very different kinds of traveller.
Organised Tour to the Georgian Military Highway: the Option I’d Recommend
An organised day tour is by far the best way to experience the Military Highway properly.
The key reason is simple: the standard marshrutka doesn’t stop at any of the sights along the route. No Zhinvali viewpoint, no Ananuri Fortress, no Friendship Monument, no honey tasting at Gudauri. It drops you in Kazbegi and picks you up again. If those stops matter to you, and they absolutely should, a tour is the only realistic way to do it in a single day.
Beyond the stops, there’s the practical reality of the road itself: the trucks, the tunnels, the one-way traffic coordination and the 4×4 transfer up to Gergeti Trinity Church. A driver who knows the route makes all of that significantly easier. Costs start from around 80 to 200 GEL per person depending on group size, tour operator and whether you choose a group or private vehicle.
Check out these great options:
- Tripster GE | The tour we did, booked through GetYourGuide and an excellent experience from start to finish. The tour was well organised, with a knowledgeable guide and above all a skilled driver. He handled the mountain traffic and the tunnel timing without breaking a sweat. Highly recommended.
- Friendly.ge | A great alternative offering private tours only. Your own group, your own comfortable car, your own pace. We used them for our half-day trip to Mtskheta and the Chronicles of Georgia and they were outstanding.
Beyond these two, there are plenty of other tours available on GetYourGuide covering the same route, including options with different group sizes, private vehicles and varying itineraries.
Public Transport: the Budget Option with Significant Trade-offs
The marshrutka from Tbilisi to Kazbegi departs from Didube Bus Station, reachable by metro on the Green Line. In 2026 the fare is 15 GEL per person one way, making it by far the cheapest option. Departures run from around 8am, leaving when full rather than on a fixed timetable, with services running through to mid-afternoon. The journey takes between three and three and a half hours.
The downsides are real. The standard marshrutka makes no scenic stops along the highway. Seating is tight, luggage space is limited and the driving style on mountain roads has been described by more than one traveller as, shall we say, spirited.
There is apparently a seasonal tourist marshrutka that stops at Ananuri and the Friendship Monument en route to Kazbegi, but it only runs in summer, costs double the regular fare and is not an official service, making it hard to rely on.
If you’re a budget traveller heading to Kazbegi primarily for hiking or an overnight stay and the highway stops are not your priority, the marshrutka is a perfectly viable option. If the journey itself is what you’re here for, it isn’t.
Self-driving the Georgian Military Highway: Flexibility at a Cost
Renting a car gives you complete freedom to stop wherever you like and linger as long as you want. The road is paved and in reasonable condition in the warmer months.
That said, Georgian driving culture takes some getting used to. Assertive overtaking on narrow mountain roads with trucks coming the other way is a feature rather than a bug.
In winter or early spring, snow chains or a 4×4 are essential on the upper sections of the highway. You also won’t be able to drive up to Gergeti Trinity Church in a standard car, because that final climb requires an off-road vehicle and most rental cars won’t be up to it.
Tip: If you do self-drive, note that the last reliable petrol station before Kazbegi is in Gudauri, so make sure you fill up there.
Thinking of Splitting the Trip Over Two Days?
It’s a genuinely good option if you have the time. Gudauri has regular marshrutka connections from Didube Bus Station, costing around 15 GEL and taking roughly two and a half to three hours. You could overnight there, explore the mountains or the ski area, and continue to Kazbegi the following morning.
Ananuri doesn’t have its own marshrutka stop as such. But it sits right on the highway so any Kazbegi or Gudauri-bound service passes it. Drivers don’t stop there though, unless specifically asked. If you’re travelling independently and want to include Ananuri, ask your driver in advance or factor it into a self-drive itinerary.
A two-day approach also means you arrive in Kazbegi with more time to hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church rather than taking the 4×4, which on a clear day is one of the finest walks in the region.
The Departure: I Heart Tbilisi Sign
The Georgian Military Highway tour departs from the I Heart Tbilisi sign on Vakhtang Gorgasali Square in the centre of the city. If it looks a little chaotic at the meeting point, don’t worry. Ours certainly did, with various groups milling around and guides calling out names. We departed only a few minutes behind schedule and the rest of the day ran smoothly from there.
One thing to know before you go: this is a long day with a lot of driving. The route covers a significant distance in each direction, and the mountain roads slow things down considerably. That said, the stops are well spaced, the views between them are extraordinary and the time passes faster than you’d expect.
Stop 1: Zhinvali Reservoir Viewpoint
The first stop comes about an hour north of Tbilisi, at a viewpoint above the Zhinvali Reservoir. As it leaves Tbilisi, the road hugs the Zhinvali Reservoir and passes through densely forested hills before climbing toward the Jvari Pass. When we visited in late March the whole scene was wrapped in mist, which gave it a moody, atmospheric quality all of its own.
This is a nice stop and a good first glimpse of the landscape ahead, but keep expectations in check, as the real highlights come later. Think of it as a warm-up. There are a few souvenir stalls at the viewpoint. So if you need a fridge magnet, then maybe you can find one here.
Stop 2: Ananuri Fortress
The main stop of the first half of the day on the Georgian Military Highway is Ananuri Fortress. It’s located about 64 kilometres from Tbilisi. Here the fortress overlooks the point where the Zhinvali Reservoir meets the Aragvi River.
Originally built in the 13th century, Ananuri served as a crucial military stronghold for the Dukes of Aragvi, a powerful feudal dynasty. The complex witnessed numerous battles and power struggles, leaving its mark on the region’s identity. In the 16th and early 19th centuries, it was the main stronghold on the way from the Daryal Valley to Dusheti, and in the course of its history was never taken by storm.
The fortress complex contains two churches, several towers and defensive walls. The main tower, known as Sheupovari, meaning “obstinate”, stood as the tallest structure. Keep in mind that its stairways are so narrow that they allow only one person to pass at a time. When you get to those narrow ramps going up, you’ll understand immediately. There is genuinely not room for two people to pass each other. Wait your turn and work your way up, because the view from the top of the tower is the reward and it’s worth it.
The Church of the Assumption, constructed in 1689, boasts intricate carvings on its facades depicting traditional Georgian and religious imagery. And then there’s impressive frescoes inside that have survived centuries of battle and fire. The church is beautiful and the setting makes Ananuri one of the most photogenic stops on the entire route.
Entrance to the complex is free. You should allow around 45 minutes to an hour to explore it properly.
Stop 3: Lunch, Wine and Khinkali at Restaurant Gorda
Continuing north on the Georgian Military Highway, it only takes about 15 minutes to reach the lunch stop at Restaurant Gorda in the village of Sonda. And this turned out to be one of the unexpected highlights of the day.
Upon arrival we ordered our food and then headed next door to a small shop for a wine and chacha tasting. Georgian wine is excellent and the chacha (a traditional Georgian grape spirit) is something else entirely. Strong, clear and not to be underestimated. One glass of the stuff was more than sufficient for us.
After the tasting we walked back to the restaurant where our food was served. We ordered khinkali (obviously) and also khachapuri, the Georgian bread filled with cheese and egg. It looks like a thick pizza, but tastes considerably better than it sounds. Both were delicious, as everything tends to be in Georgia.
What made this stop particularly special is the garden out the back, where apart from the amazing views, you can watch the khinkali being made by hand. Shaping the dough, filling each dumpling and pinching the tops closed one by one.
Stop 4: Gudauri Viewpoint and Honey Tasting
The drive from Sonda to Gudauri takes about an hour and is where the mountains really announce themselves. During the last section the road climbs higher and higher with the snow accumulating on either side. By the time you step out of the vehicle at the Gudauri viewpoint the cold hits you immediately. So wrap up, because in late March it was genuinely freezing up here.
The highway passes through the Gudauri ski area before continuing higher toward the Jvari Pass. The viewpoint itself offers a sweeping panorama of the Greater Caucasus, the kind of view that makes you stop talking mid-sentence and just look.
Right next to the viewpoint is a honey tasting stand, and this is absolutely worth a stop. The honey here is infused with all manner of natural flavours and the variety is impressive. We tried several and they were genuinely excellent. Buy a jar or two as it travels well and makes a better souvenir than anything you’d find in a tourist shop.
Stop 5: The Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument
The plan on most tours now is to first cross the Jvari Pass and then visit the Friendship Monument on the way back. Our driver received information during the day that the one-way traffic flow through the mountain tunnels wouldn’t work in our favour going that direction, so the schedule was sensibly reversed. The monument first, then the tunnels to Kazbegi.
Flexibility like this is one of the advantages of going with an experienced local operator who knows the road.
The friendship monument consists of a large round stone and concrete structure with columns symbolising the centuries of relations between the Georgian and Russian peoples. The mosaics depict Georgian and Russian heroes, farmers, fairy tales and scenes from history. It was gifted by the Soviet Union in 1983 to mark the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk. This treaty placed Georgia under Russian protection.
The monument sits on the edge of cliffs with extraordinary views of the mountains on all sides. When we visited the mountains were entirely snow-covered and the sky was white with cloud. Quite disorienting in the best possible way. The path to the monument was slippery with snow and ice when we visited, so watch your step.
Stop 6: The Tunnels Through the Caucasus
Between the Friendship Monument and Kazbegi, the Georgian Military Highway passes through a series of tunnels cut through the mountain rock. For most of the journey north, the sight that dominates the roadside is the queues of trucks. Kilometres of lorries from Turkey, Iran, Armenia, Azerbaijan and beyond, waiting their turn to pass through the narrow tunnels towards Russia.
Our driver navigated past those queues and timed our passage through the tunnels with no waiting time. He really demonstrated the kind of skill and local knowledge that makes a good guide worth every lari.
Whether he was in communication with other drivers or with traffic controllers we never quite worked out. But we sailed through without delay in either direction. When you’re watching those truck queues stretch into the distance, you’ll appreciate this enormously.
Stop 7: Kazbegi and the Gergeti Trinity Church – Final Stop on the Georgian Military Highway
Arrive in Stepansminda
After all the driving, the mountains and the tunnels, Kazbegi arrives as both an ending and a beginning. The town itself, officially called Stepantsminda, sits at the base of the valley with Mount Kazbek towering above. Mount Kazbegi, known in Georgian as Mkinvartsveri meaning “Ice-Top”, is at 5,047 metres one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus.
According to ancient Greek mythology, it was to these slopes that Prometheus was chained as punishment for stealing fire from the gods. The Georgians have their own version of the same story, with their hero Amirani imprisoned in a cave high on the mountain.
When we arrived, the mountain was almost entirely obscured by cloud and mist. So keep in mind that the weather is unpredictable and you may not get that postcard view. However, that uncertainty is also part of what makes it an adventure. The atmosphere of the place doesn’t depend on sunshine here.
Head up in 4×4 to the Gergeti Trinity Church
From Kazbegi, the tour group transferred into 4×4 vehicles for the drive up to the Gergeti Trinity Church. The road is steep and rough, and the standard minibus cannot make the climb. Keep some cash handy for the 4×4 taking you up the last bit.
The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century by an unknown architect and is the only cross-cupola church in the Khevi province. It is located 2,170 metres above the town of Stepantsminda, below Mount Kazbek.
In the 18th century, the church was used as a storage place for Georgia’s most precious relics, which were transported here for safekeeping during the Persian invasion of Tbilisi. During the Soviet era, religious services were prohibited, but the church remained a popular destination and was returned to the Georgian Orthodox Church in the 1990s.
To be honest the church itself is relatively simple. Its thick stone walls, modest decorations, a separate bell tower aren’t that impressive. It is not the building that makes Gergeti Trinity Church extraordinary, but rather its location. Perched on a ridge high above the valley, with the Caucasus Mountains stretching in every direction and Mount Kazbek looming directly above.
On a clear day, the views are among the most spectacular in all of Georgia. Though, on a cloudy day in late March, with mist rolling through and snow on the ground, it was atmospheric in a completely different way.
Tip: If you want to hike up rather than take the 4×4, the climb from Stepantsminda takes between one and a half to two hours each way on a steep trail. A rewarding option if you have the time and the legs for it.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi
- When to go: The road is open year-round but late April through October is ideal for clear mountain views. We visited in late March and while the snow added drama, the cloud cover meant we missed the best of the Kazbegi views. Summer and early autumn offer the most reliable conditions. If there is too much snow the road to the Gergeti Trinity Church could be closed.
- What to wear: Layers are essential. Even if it’s warm in Tbilisi, the temperature at Gudauri and Kazbegi can be significantly colder, especially with snow still on the ground in spring. Comfortable shoes with grip are advisable, particularly if you plan to walk to the Friendship Monument or hike up to the church.
- How long does it take: Plan for a full day, typically around 11 to 12 hours door to door. It is a long day but a well-paced one with good tour operators.
- The trucks: The queues of lorries waiting at the tunnels are a constant feature of the route. A good driver with local knowledge will navigate around them efficiently. Don’t be alarmed when you see them.
- Mountain weather: Expect the unexpected. Cloud and mist are common, especially in spring, and can obscure the mountain views entirely. It doesn’t diminish the experience, but it’s worth knowing in advance so you’re not disappointed.
- Dress code at Gergeti Trinity Church: Women must cover their heads and wear a skirt or long trousers. Scarves and wraps are usually available to borrow at the entrance if needed. No photography inside the church.
- Travel Insurance: Always a good idea. Readers of Next Journey Ahead get 5% off Heymondo travel insurance that covers Georgia.
Final Thoughts on the Georgian Military Highway
The Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi is the kind of day that reminds you why you travel. Ancient fortresses, mountain monasteries, wine and khinkali at altitude, a driver who parts truck queues like the Red Sea and views that defy description.
Even with imperfect weather, it was one of the best days of the entire Georgia trip. If you’re spending any time in Tbilisi, put this one at the top of the list!
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