We saved Mtskheta for our last day in Georgia, fitting in a half day trip before our evening flight home. It turned out to be the perfect way to close out the trip. Ancient monasteries, extraordinary stories, cobbled streets and one of the most striking monuments in the country. Here’s how we did it.
Also read: Tbilisi City Guide: The Best Things to Do in Georgia’s Capital
Mtskheta at a Glance
- Distance from Tbilisi: Around 20 kilometres, roughly 30 minutes by car
- Time needed: Half a day for Mtskheta and the Chronicles of Georgia
- Full day option: Add Gori and Uplistsikhe (see below)
- Don’t miss: The stories behind Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, the views from Jvari Monastery, churchkhela from the street stalls
How to Get There
A few options on how to get to Mtskheta. I’ll give organised options, as well as how to go at it on your own.
Private or Group Tour to Mtskheta
Joining a private or small group tour is the easiest and most rewarding option, especially for a half day. A guide adds enormous value at both Jvari and Svetitskhoveli, where the stories run deep.
We booked a private half day tour with Friendly.ge through GetYourGuide. It was excellent from start to finish: punctual, comfortable and with a guide who brought both sites to life.
One practical note: we chose a private tour because we had our luggage with us. It was our last day and we’d already checked out. A private vehicle had room for our bags, where a group minibus wouldn’t have. Worth keeping in mind if you’re in a similar situation.
For a small group tour, GetYourGuide has plenty of well-reviewed alternatives on the same route. The one below is organised by Tripster, which we used for our Georgian Military Highway trip. We had a great experience with them!
Take a Taxi or Bolt to Mtskheta
If you’d prefer to go independently, a taxi or Bolt from central Tbilisi costs around 20 to 30 GEL one way. The journey takes roughly 30 minutes.
By Marshrutka to Mtskheta
The cheapest option by far. Marshrutkas to Mtskheta depart from Didube Bus Station (Green Line metro) for around 1 GEL. They run regularly throughout the day.
Note that Jvari Monastery sits on a hilltop outside the town. You’ll need a separate taxi of around 5 GEL to get there. Fine for independent travellers, but less practical on a tight half day schedule.
Stop 1: Jvari Monastery overlooking Mtskheta
Your half day begins on the cliff above Mtskheta. Jvari Monastery perches at the top, and its name simply means cross in Georgian.
The story behind that name starts with Saint Nino, a young Christian woman from Cappadocia who arrived in Georgia in the early 4th century. Through her teachings and reported miracles, she converted the pagan King Mirian III to Christianity. As a result, Georgia declared Christianity its official religion in 327 AD, making it one of the first countries in the world to do so.
Saint Nino remains one of the most revered figures in Georgian history. Her symbol, a cross woven from grapevines and bound with her own hair, is still one of the most recognised Christian symbols in Georgia today.
On this very hilltop, Saint Nino erected a large wooden cross in the 4th century. A small church followed over its remains around 545 AD. Then, between 586 and 605 AD, the current Great Church of Jvari took shape. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1994.
We spent around 45 minutes here, listening to stories from our guide and taking in the view of one of Georgia’s finest viewpoint. You can see the confluence of Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers and the town of Mtskheta spreading out on the opposite bank, with mountains rising behind it. Don’t rush it!
Stop 2: The Town of Mtskheta
From Jvari, the drive down into Mtskheta takes about 10 minutes. The town is compact and easy to explore on foot. Cobbled streets lead through souvenir stalls and food sellers towards the cathedral.
One thing you’ll notice immediately is the churchkhela hanging in colourful strings everywhere. These are a Georgian sweet: walnuts or hazelnuts on a string, dipped repeatedly in grape juice and flour until they form a long, waxy cylinder. They look like candles. They taste completely unlike anything you’d expect: chewy, nutty and naturally sweet. Try one from the stalls and buy a few to take home. They travel well and make a far better souvenir than a fridge magnet.
Beyond the food, Mtskheta is the ancient capital of Georgia, predating Tbilisi by centuries. That history shows in everything from the medieval walls to the cluster of religious buildings within easy walking distance of each other. Even a slow wander through the streets is time well spent.
Stop 3: Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is the most important religious building in Georgia. Step inside for the first time and you understand immediately why. The name translates as life-giving pillar, and behind it lies one of the most extraordinary stories you’ll encounter.
An Incredible Story about Christ’s Robe
It begins with Christ’s robe. According to Georgian tradition, a Jewish man named Elias from Mtskheta was present at the crucifixion in Jerusalem. He obtained the robe and brought it back to Georgia. On his return, he presented it to his sister Sidonia, who touched it and collapsed, overwhelmed with grief. Died on the spot! Nobody could take the robe from her hands, so she was buried still holding it.
In time, a cedar tree grew from her grave. Locals believed it had miraculous healing powers. When Saint Nino later ordered the tree felled to build the first church on the site, seven columns were cut from the wood. Six went up without trouble. The seventh rose into the air on its own and hovered there. Saint Nino prayed through the night. By morning it had descended to earth. A sacred liquid was said to flow from it, curing the sick. That is where the name comes from: sveti means pillar, tskhoveli means life-giving.
Current Cathedral in Mtskheta
The current cathedral dates from the 11th century. For centuries it served as the coronation and burial site of Georgian kings. Inside, 16th century frescoes have survived, alongside a symbolic copy of the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The robe of Christ is said to rest beneath the central nave to this day.
We arrived to find a Sunday service still underway, so we explored the town first and returned once it had ended. Our guide had anticipated the timing correctly. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, factor this in: morning services can run well into the afternoon.
Stop 4: The Chronicles of Georgia
On the way back into Tbilisi, the final stop is the Chronicles of Georgia. It is one of the most impressive and unusual monuments in the country.
A series of enormous stone pillars stand side by side at the top of a long flight of stairs above the Tbilisi Reservoir. Each one runs from base to top with carved figures, symbols and scenes: kings, saints, warriors, mythological creatures and key moments from Georgian history, all connected across the columns into one continuous visual narrative. The scale alone is extraordinary. Even without knowing every story, the effect is remarkable.
Our guide helped us pick out stories we had heard earlier in the day, carved into the stone. Spotting the figure of Saint Nino or a scene from the founding of Mtskheta brings the monument to life in a way that simply walking past it cannot. If you can, visit with a guide.
The stairs take a bit of effort, but the views from the top over the reservoir are worth it. If you have time after the monument, there is a beach below with water activities on the reservoir.
Tip: The Chronicles are easy to visit by taxi from central Tbilisi on a separate afternoon. The ride takes around 15 to 20 minutes and costs roughly 15 to 20 GEL.
Want a Full Day? Add Gori and Uplistsikhe
If you have more time, combining Mtskheta with Gori and the cave city of Uplistsikhe makes for one of the most historically varied day trips from Tbilisi. In that case, the Chronicles of Georgia would likely not fit into the day. The good news is they are easy to visit by taxi from Tbilisi on a separate afternoon.
Gori and the Stalin Museum
Gori sits around 80 kilometres west of Tbilisi. It is most famous for one fact: Joseph Stalin was born here. Visiting the Stalin Museum is a fascinating and surreal experience. It presents the life of one of history’s most consequential and controversial figures with very little critical commentary. A good guide will provide the context the exhibits leave out. Beyond the museum, the Gori Fortress overlooks the town centre and is worth climbing for the views.
Uplistsikhe: Georgia’s Ancient Cave City
Around 10 kilometres from Gori, Uplistsikhe is a rock-hewn city carved into a sandstone cliff above the Mtkvari River. At its peak it was a major political and religious centre: cave dwellings, temples, a wine cellar, a cave theatre and an ancient street plan, all cut directly into the rock.
In the 9th century, builders added a Christian basilica at the highest point. The result is a layering of pagan and Christian architecture that tells the story of how Georgian culture evolved over more than a thousand years.
The combined Mtskheta, Gori and Uplistsikhe day tour runs roughly 10 hours from Tbilisi. GetYourGuide has several well-reviewed options, so check out what fits your plans.
Practical Tips for Visiting Mtskheta
- When to visit: Mtskheta is worth visiting year-round. That said, spring and autumn offer the most pleasant conditions. We visited in late March and the landscape was already beginning to green up nicely.
- Sunday services: Both Jvari and Svetitskhoveli hold services on Sunday mornings that can run into the afternoon. Plan accordingly, and be respectful if a service is still going when you arrive.
- Dress code: Women should cover their heads and shoulders and wear a skirt or long trousers at both religious sites. Wraps are usually available to borrow at the cathedral entrance. Men cannot wear short shorts, tank tops or a hat.
- Luggage: Doing this trip on your last day before a flight? Book a private tour. Most group minibuses won’t have room for bags.
- The Chronicles by taxi: Short on time? The Chronicles of Georgia are easy to visit as a standalone from central Tbilisi. Around 15 to 20 minutes each way and 15 to 20 GEL per ride.
- Stay connected in Georgia by installing a Saily eSIM on your phone. Try it out with code MARTIN84627 at check-out to get $5 discount on your first purchase.
Final Thoughts
Mtskheta turned out to be the perfect ending to our Georgia trip. The stories behind Jvari and Svetitskhoveli are some of the most extraordinary you’ll encounter anywhere in the country. Having a guide to bring them to life made all the difference.
The Chronicles of Georgia added a memorable flourish on the way home. A half day very well spent, and a place I would go back to without hesitation.
Have questions about the trip, or been to Mtskheta yourself and want to share a tip? Drop a comment below, or find me on Instagram. For more travel inspiration from Georgia and beyond, sign up to my newsletter.
If you’re planning a trip to Georgia, then check out my Georgia Travel Guide, or continue reading with the latest articles:
