Turkmenistan Itinerary | One Week Across the Desert

Planning a trip to Turkmenistan? Then follow along on this 7-day Turkmenistan itinerary with our exact route, starting at the Shavat border (near Khiva) and ending at the Farap border (near Bukhara).

While planning a trip to Turkmenistan might seem daunting, it doesn’t have to be. In fact, travel here is only possible with a registered tour guide, as the government doesn’t allow independent travel around the country.

That might sound limiting at first, but in reality, it makes things surprisingly easy as your guide takes care of everything from your visa support and transport to hotel bookings and border logistics.

We spent one unforgettable week travelling across the country, from the remote ruins of Konye-Urgench to the surreal skyline of Ashgabat, and from the blazing Darvaza Gas Crater to the colourful cliffs of Yangykala Canyon.

Also read: Turkmenistan Travel Tips | What To Know Before You Go

A Brief History of Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan’s history stretches back thousands of years, with some of the earliest known settlements in Central Asia. Cities like Merv and Konye-Urgench once thrived as major hubs along the Silk Road, connecting the East and West through trade, culture, and religion.

In the 19th century, the region was absorbed into the Russian Empire, and later became part of the Soviet Union. After gaining independence in 1991, Turkmenistan was ruled for two decades by Saparmurat Niyazov.

He renamed himself Turkmenbashi (“Father of the Turkmen”) and built a full-blown personality cult, including golden statues and an official spiritual guidebook, the Ruhnama.

Today, Turkmenistan remains one of the world’s most closed-off countries. But beyond the politics, visitors will find ancient ruins, wild desert landscapes, and a curious mix of tradition and modernity you won’t find anywhere else.

My 7-day Turkmenistan Itinerary | Day-By-Day

This is the route I followed, and it’s the perfect Turkmenistan week-long itinerary if you want to see the most important sights of the country.

Day-by-day overview:

• Day 1: Arrival, Konye-Urgench and Darvaza Gas Crater
• Day 2: Arrival in Ashgabat, start exploring
• Day 3: Ashgabat, Old Nisa and night train to Turkmenbashi
• Day 4: Turkmenbashi, Caspian Sea and Camping at Yangykala Canyon
• Day 5: Drive to Nokhur in Kopet Dag Mountain Range, homestay
• Day 6: Kow Ata, Private Horse Farm, overnight in Mary
• Day 7: Ancient Merv, drive to Turkmenabat, Departure

If you’re short on time, then after this week-long Turkmenistan itinerary you’ll find a few alternative (shorter) itinerary options.

Day 1 | Cross the Border, Explore Konye-Urgench & Camp at the Gates of Hell

Your week in Turkmenistan begins at the Shavat land border between Dashoguz and Khiva. While the crossing can take up to three hours, it’s a manageable process, because your guide will take care of all the border formalities.

Exploring UNESCO-listed Konye-Urgench

When you’ve made it through, the first stop in Turkmenistan is Konye-Urgench, a once thriving Silk Road capital. Today it’s a beautiful archaeological site, recognised by UNESCO for its historical and architectural significance.

You’ll begin with two lesser-known mausoleums on the outskirts—Sultan Ali and Nedjmeddin Kubra—before heading to the heart of the complex.

There, you’ll find the site’s most famous landmarks:

• Turabek Khanum Mausoleum, with traces of intricate mosaic domes
• The towering Timur Qutlugh Minaret, once Central Asia’s tallest
• Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum, marked by a large blue dome
• Il Arslan Mausoleum, with its unique zigzag-patterned roof

Overnight in a yurt next to the Darvaza Gas Crater

Later in the afternoon, you’ll drive deep into the Karakum Desert to reach the Darvaza Gas Crater. The road is in terrible shape, so make sure your guide drives a proper 4×4. You’ll arrive in time for sunset, when the flickering flames of the crater come to life.

Known as the Gates of Hell, this massive pit has been burning continuously since the 1970s after a Soviet gas drilling accident. Standing at the rim as darkness falls is one of the most surreal travel moments I ever experienced.

Also read: Darvaza Gas Crater | How To Visit Turkmenistan’s Fiery Heart

Day 2 | More Gas Craters, Desert Villages & Arrival in Ashgabat

After breakfast, the journey continues with visits to two lesser-known craters near Darvaza. One still smoulders, while the other is eerily calm and filled with green water.

You’ll then make a short stop in Yerbent, a traditional desert village dotted with yurts, sand-covered homes, and the occasional camel.

First Impressions of Ashgabat

By early afternoon, you’ll arrive in Ashgabat, the surreal capital city built almost entirely from white marble. The capital is a must visit place on any Turkmenistan itinerary, whether it’s for a week or shorter.

Stop for lunch en route—plov is the national dish—and take a quick photo break at the city’s bird-shaped airport terminal. As you’ll discover later, this is only one of Ashgabat’s many architectural oddities.

Our guide arranged a hotel room at Bagt Kösgi, located within the city’s matrimonial complex.

Neon Lights & Monumental Architecture

Once the heat subsides, begin your first exploration of Ashgabat’s gleaming landmarks:

• The Alem Center, home to the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel. Make sure to go for a ride
• The towering Arch of Neutrality, topped by a golden statue of the former president
• The monumental Ruhnama book sculpture, dedicated to Turkmenbashi’s national guide
• A series of vast city squares, fountains, and empty ceremonial spaces

Wrap up your day at Independence Park, where you’ll finally see crowds of locals—families, kids, wedding parties—all enjoying the cooler evening hours.

Afterward, wrap up your day with dinner at CentralPark, one of the city’s top restaurants, with sweeping views of the neon-lit skyline.

Day 3 | Ancient Sites, Bazaar Culture & Boarding the Night Train

Discover Old Nisa in the Morning Heat

Start the third day of you week-long Turkmenistan itinerary with a visit to Old Nisa, another UNESCO World Heritage Site just outside Ashgabat. Once the capital of the Parthian Empire, this ancient city dates back over 2,000 years.

You’ll need a bit of imagination—along with guidance and visual reconstructions—to picture how grand this complex once was. But even though much of Old Nisa remains buried or protected beneath sand to prevent erosion, the site still offers a fascinating look into Turkmenistan’s deep history.

Tip: Even in the early morning, it gets very hot here, and there’s little shade. So make sure to apply sunscreen and bring an umbrella.

Visit the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

Next, head to the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque and Mausoleum, located close to Old Nisa. This grand mosque—built by and named after the country’s first president—is one of the largest in Central Asia.

It’s an architectural spectacle: white marble throughout, imported mahogany, intricate detailing, and verses from the Ruhnama (rather than the Quran) decorating the interior.

Shop for souvenirs at the Russian Bazaar

After visiting the mosque, stop for lunch at a casual döner spot near the university district—a popular hangout for locals and students. From there, continue to the bustling Russian Bazaar, one of the liveliest and most authentic parts of the city.

Unlike the empty ceremonial zones in the government district, this part of Ashgabat is full of people. It’s a great place to:

• Browse for souvenirs
• Shop for snacks and dried fruits
• Take a photo in traditional Turkmen attire with one of those famous wool hats
• And maybe even find a rare English copy of the Ruhnama, the strange spiritual-political text written by Turkmenbashi (tip: don’t pay more than 150 TMT)

If you’re after something truly oddball to bring home, this is the place to find it.

Explore the National Museum

Back in the new part of the city, visit the National Museum of History, home to one of the best archaeological collections in Central Asia.

You’ll find beautifully preserved artefacts from ancient cities like Nisa and Merv, along with ethnographic displays and, of course, the world’s largest handwoven carpet—complete with a stitched dedication to the president.

Board the Night Train to Turkmenbashi

Before heading to the train station, make one final sightseeing stop at the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque. With its Ottoman-style domes and minarets, it looks straight out of Istanbul. The mosque is often compared to the Blue Mosque or Süleymaniye Mosque. Do you agree?

In the evening, head to the station and board your first-class sleeper cabin on the overnight train to Turkmenbashi. The train is a throwback to the Soviet era—well-maintained, charmingly old-fashioned, and surprisingly elegant.

Tip: While the experience is memorable, keep in mind that comfort can vary. The a/c doesn’t always work, so bring water and be prepared for a warm ride.

Day 4 | From the Caspian Coast to the Canyons of Another World

Your night train rolls into Turkmenbashi Station early in the morning. Start the day with breakfast and excellent coffee at a local café downtown before making a quick stop at a Japanese memorial. Next, head to Awaza, Turkmenistan’s government-planned resort zone along the Caspian Sea.

The Empty Resorts of Awaza

Awaza is lined with sprawling beach resorts that stretch for kilometres. Despite the scale, the area feels eerily quiet—even in early summer. Our guide chose a hotel where we could easily access the beach and use the facilities.

Swimming is possible, but wind and water temperatures vary. If nothing else, it’s a refreshing contrast to the desert heat. After a quick rinse and change, it’s time to swap the sea for stone.

Leaving the coast behind, our Turkmenistan itinerary continued deep into the Karakum Desert.

Before we headed inland though, we make a few scenic stops—first at the harbour area in Turkmenbashi, then at a viewpoint overlooking the Turkmenbashi Gulf, which offers panoramic views of the Caspian Sea’s rugged shoreline.

Into the Karakum: Journey to Yangykala Canyon

As the road stretches on, you’ll cross the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau—the same vast geological formation you may have driven across earlier in Uzbekistan on the way to the Aral Sea. After several hours, the landscape opens up into something spectacular.

Welcome to Yangykala Canyon!

If the Darvaza Gas Crater is Turkmenistan’s most iconic sight, Yangykala Canyon is surely its most jaw-dropping. Towering pink, red, and orange cliffs stretch across the horizon in what feels like a scene from Mars.

You can climb to a precarious-looking rocky outcrop—nicknamed the Crocodile Beak—for one of the best views and an iconic photo.

Despite its barren appearance, the canyon is full of life: you may spot vultures circling overhead, sparrows darting for insects, and, after dark, even a desert fox curious enough to skulk near your tent in search of leftover food.

Also read: Yangykala Canyon | How To Visit Turkmenistan’s Grand Canyon

Day 5 | From Canyon Silence to Mountain Hospitality

Wake early and take one last walk to the Yangykala Canyon viewpoint. In the morning light, the layers of red, pink, and orange cliffs look different from the day before.

After packing up camp, it’s time to leave the canyon behind and begin the long drive back toward civilisation.

Desert Roads, Lunch in Balkanabat & a Caravan Monument

Most of the day is spent on the road, crossing long stretches of open desert with only the occasional gas station or small town to break it up. The inly noteworthy stop is for a landscape picture, or Balkanabat’s caravan monument.

From there, it’s a gradual climb into the Kopet Dag Mountain Range, where you’ll arrive in Nokhur in the late afternoon.

Arrive in Nokhur: A Mountain Village Frozen in Time

In the late afternoon, you’ll arrive in Nokhur, a small village of just 2,000 people in the Kopet Dag Mountain Range. Unlike the grand cities or desert landmarks, Nokhur offers something different: a slow pace, cool mountain air, and a chance to connect with rural life during a homestay.

Use the afternoon to explore the village on foot:

• Visit the cemetery, known for its graves marked with ram horns, believed to protect the spirits of the dead
• Stop by a large tree at the heart of a local legend—complete with a hollow trunk said to grant wishes
• Check out the local market stalls, where curious residents may greet you with smiles and questions

Nokhur is one of those places where nothing much happens—and that’s exactly its charm.

Day 6 | From Mountain Trails to Silk Road Cities

Begin the day with a freshly prepared breakfast at your mountain homestay. The morning air in Nokhur is cool and quiet, making it a peaceful place to start the day. The destination for today is Mary, which is quite a bit to the east of Turkmenistan.

Descend into Kow Ata Underground Lake

Your first stop is Kow Ata, an underground lake inside a cave system southwest of Ashgabat. The name means “Father of the Caves,” and it’s popular with locals as a natural hot spring. We didn’t think much of this place, but since it’s on the way, you might as well do a quick stop.

Fall in Love with Turkmen Horses

Next up is a visit to a private Turkmen horse farm, and this may become one of your favourite stops of the trip. These horses, particularly the Akhal-Teke breed, are considered national treasures—and seeing them up close is genuinely impressive.

Your guide or a local handler will explain what makes them special:

• Their coats are shiny, soft, and often iridescent
• They have no strong smell, unlike most other horse breeds
• Some colours are exceptionally rare, including golden, blue-eyed white, and even coats that develop a pink hue when warmed up from running

Turkmen horses are sleek, elegant, and culturally significant. By the end of the visit, you’ll understand why they’re so beloved here.

Ruins, Roads & the Journey East to Mary

After lunch on the outskirts of Ashgabat we began the long journey east toward the city of Mary.

En route, you can stop at two lesser-known archaeological sites:

• Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque, a photogenic remnant of medieval architecture
• Abiverd, an abandoned Silk Road-era settlement with only sparse remains today

While these stops are brief and may not rival the grandeur of Merv, they break up the journey nicely and offer further glimpses into Turkmenistan’s layered past.

Arrive in Mary by early evening and check in to Hotel Margush, a comfortable base for the final leg of your Turkmenistan itinerary. The hotel has a large courtyard, a swimming pool, and sometimes even a live band performing during dinner.

Tip: If you’re in need of a little recovery, there’s a massage service available at very affordable rates (around $10 USD/hour).

Day 7 | Exploring Ancient Merv & Turkmenistan Itinerary Finish

Before making your way to the border, you’ll have time to visit Ancient Merv—the final UNESCO-listed site on this Turkmenistan itinerary, and arguably the most expansive.

Located just outside Mary, Merv was once one of the world’s great Silk Road cities, rivalled only by Samarkand and Bukhara in scale and influence.

Key Highlights to Visit in Ancient Merv

The site is vast, and while around 14 monuments of interest are scattered across the landscape, most travellers will want to focus on a few key highlights.

• Great Kyz Kala | This massive mudbrick fortress, likely a fortified residence, is the most iconic structure in Merv. From here you can spot the Smaller Kyz Kala, thought to have been used by women, while men resided in the larger one.
• Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum | A beautiful 12th-century structure restored with Turkish support. Its 17-metre dome was once visible from miles away, guiding caravans across the desert.
• Ashkab’s Complex & the Water Cistern | A lesser-visited part of the site, but historically significant, especially when paired with stories about the city’s water engineering.
• Mausoleum of Muhammad ibn Zayd | Still partly unrestored, but fascinating—especially if your guide once helped excavate it like ours did.

If you have more time or a strong interest in early civilisations, a visit to Gonur Depe, part of the Bactria-Margiana Archaeological Complex, can be added. However, it’s further into the desert and requires an additional day.

Also read: Ancient Merv | Explore One Of Central Asia’s Oldest Cities

Finish your week in Turkmenistan Crossing the Farap Border

After visiting Merv, it’s time to head toward Turkmenabat and the Farap border crossing with Uzbekistan. While these crossings are generally straightforward, they can still take some time, so keep your documents handy and be patient.

Map of this Turkmenistan Itinerary

To help you visualise the itinerary through Turkmenistan described in this article take a look at the map below.

Alternative Turkmenistan Itinerary Ideas

Short on time? If you don’t have a full week, here are a few variations on the Turkmenistan itinerary that still let you most essentials:

3 Days in Turkmenistan Itinerary

• Day 1: Cross border near Khiva → Konye-Urgench → Darvaza Crater (overnight camp)
• Day 2: Drive to Ashgabat, evening sightseeing
• Day 3: Old Nisa → Horse farm → Fly out of Ashgabat

4 Days in Turkmenistan

Follow the 3-day itinerary and drive or fly to Mary at the end of day 3. On day 4 you explore Merv and cross the border back into Uzbekistan.

5 Days in Turkmenistan

• Add Yangykala Canyon camping and one night in Ashgabat
• Skip Mary and Merv to save time and fly out of Ashgabat

Extended Turkmenistan Itinerary: 10–12 Days

• Add Gonur Depe (archaeological site near Merv)
• Travel deeper into the Karakum Desert or explore the Ustyurt Plateau
• Spend an extra day in Ashgabat

A local tour agency can tailor your route to fit your schedule and interests.

How to Get to Turkmenistan & Travel Around

Getting In

Overland | The easiest way to enter Turkmenistan is by land border from Uzbekistan:

• Dashoguz (near Khiva)
• Farap (near Bukhara)

Plane | You can also fly into Ashgabat (ASB) from nearby capitals like Tashkent, Istanbul, or Dubai, though flights are limited.

Letter of Invitation (LOI) | To enter, you’ll need a tourist visa supported by an LOI, which is arranged by your tour company. Once you have the LOI, the visa can be collected at the airport or land border.

Getting Around

All travel within Turkmenistan is arranged through your tour guide, so you don’t need to worry about logistics. Transport typically includes:

• A 4×4 for desert areas like Darvaza and Yangykala
• A night train for longer distances (e.g. Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi)
• A sedan for overland drives between cities like Mary and Turkmenabat

Your guide will handle everything: accommodation, meals, fuel, permits, and timing. It’s one of the few places in the world where going guided is not just recommended—it’s required.

Use a local tour guide to Plan Your Turkmenistan Itinerary

We used a local tour guide named Murad. He doesn’t have a website, but he’s been running tours through Turkmenistan for 10+ years. He came highly recommended in a travel group on Facebook.

Having used Murad’s services I can now also highly recommend him as your tour guide for Turkmenistan. He will take all the hassle out of planning your trip. Just let him know what you want to see and how many days you have and he’ll give you some options.

Once you’ve agreed on the itinerary and the price he can apply for the LOI—your entry ticket into Turkmenistan. You can reach him via WhatsApp +993 65 046504. His all-inclusive prices include LOI, transportation, accommodation, entry tickets and all food and drinks.

Final Thoughts

This Turkmenistan itinerary gives you a complete, cross-country experience in just seven days—showcasing history, landscapes, local life, and a capital like no other.

If you’re planning a wider trip through Central Asia, this route connects seamlessly with Uzbekistan and offers a fascinating contrast.

Also read: Complete Turkmenistan Travel Guide

Do you have any questions? Then leave a comment below or reach out to me on Instagram. And sign up for my newsletter for new guides and travel ideas straight to your inbox.

Ready to plan your trip to Turkmenistan? Start with my Turkmenistan travel tips and then continue with my other travel guides for this fascinating country:

• 7 Incredible Things to See and Do in Turkmenistan
• 15 Things To Do in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s Surreal Capital
• Ancient Merv | Explore One of Central Asia’s Oldest Cities
• Yangykala Canyon | How to Visit Turkmenistan’s Grand Canyon
• Darvaza Gas Crater | How To Visit Turkmenistan’s Fiery Heart
• Turkmenistan Itinerary | One Week Across the Desert
• Turkmenistan Travel Tips | What To Know Before You Go