In this Ashgabat travel guide, I’ll show you the best things to do in Turkmenistan’s capital. From its neon-lit skyline to the archaeological site of Old Nisa.
Ashgabat is a city that defies expectations and easy descriptions. One moment you’re surrounded by grand white marble palaces and oversized golden statues, and the next you’re walking through a Soviet-era bazaar or gazing at ancient Parthian ruins.
Find out what to see and do in Turkmenistan’s surreal capital with this travel guide.
Also read: Turkmenistan Itinerary | One Week Across The Desert
A Short History of Ashgabat
Ashgabat’s history is defined by both destruction and reinvention. It started as a modest oasis town between Persia and the Russian Empire. And grew slowly under Russian rule in the late 19th century.
That all came crashing down in 1948 when a massive earthquake flattened the city. It killed an estimated 100,000 people, around two-thirds of the population. The disaster was largely kept quiet by Soviet authorities, and rebuilding was slow.
After Turkmenistan gained independence in 1991, President Saparmurat Niyazov (Turkmenbashi) launched an ambitious campaign to turn Ashgabat into a gleaming national showcase.
White marble became the material of choice, and the city now holds several Guinness World Records for its use. Since then, it has continued to evolve under his successor, with newer monuments and even grander visions.
The result is a city like no other: spotless, scripted, and strangely silent in most parts of the city.
15 Things to Do in Ashgabat
Interact with locals at Independence Park & Monument
One of the most important public spaces in Ashgabat, Independence Park is a landscaped zone with flowerbeds, fountains, and flagpoles galore.
Its centrepiece is the towering Independence Monument. With its base shaped like a traditional Turkmen yurt it is standing 118 metres tall. Surrounding the base are statues of key historical figures, including Oguz Khan.
The crescent moon and five stars represent the country’s five regions, a recurring theme across many national monuments. The park is a quiet escape during the day and feels even more surreal when lit up at night.
Monument of Neutrality (Formerly the Arch of Neutrality)
One of Ashgabat’s most striking, and controversial icons is the Monument of Neutrality. This 75-meter-high marble tower was built in 1998 to celebrate Turkmenistan’s declared status of permanent neutrality.
It was topped by a 12-meter gold-plated statue of President Saparmurat Niyazov. And it was designed to rotate slowly throughout the day so that the figure’s face would always be illuminated by the sun.
In 2010, Niyazov’s successor Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow had the entire monument dismantled and moved to the southern edge of the city. The statue was reinstalled atop the new Monument of Neutrality, but it now no longer rotates.
When we visited in June 2025 the monument was undergoing renovations so we couldn’t visit the viewing platform.
Ride the Ferris Wheel at the Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center
You can’t miss the Alem Center. This marble-clad complex was built to house exhibitions, cultural events, and entertainment venues. But the complex is most famously home to the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel, as recognised by Guinness World Records.
The building is a perfect example of Ashgabat’s architectural flair: monumental symmetry, clean white façades, and gold accents wherever possible. Whether or not you go inside, it’s a photo-worthy stop.
And to be honest while the ride is fun, it doesn’t give you many views of the city. Instead you can see the inner workings of the ferris wheel, which is pretty cool for architecture lovers. If you have time you can also ride bumper cars or an arcade race car.
Stay at Bagt Köşgi & Enjoy the Hilltop Views
The Bagt Köşgi, or Palace of Happiness, is Ashgabat’s most extravagant wedding venue. Perched on a hill overlooking the city, it features a cube-shaped glass structure set within a white and gold eight-pointed star, the national emblem.
It’s completely over the top, but somehow also quintessentially Turkmen. Across the street is a public park with excellent views of the city. As night falls you might find local youth here playing guitars and singing in groups, especially on weekends.
Visit the National Museum of History of Turkmenistan
If you want to understand Turkmenistan beyond its marble-clad capital, the National Museum of History is the place to go.
Spread across several floors, its exhibitions cover everything from Bronze Age artefacts found at sites like Gonur Depe, to delicate Silk Road jewellery, ancient manuscripts, and Turkmen carpets.
The museum also houses impressive collections from the Parthian and Seljuk periods. All in all giving great context to places you might visit on day trips, such as Merv or Old Nisa.
Most displays have English labels, but having your guide explain the highlights will make the visit more engaging. Allocate at least one to two hours, because it’s one of the few places where you can see the full sweep of Turkmenistan’s history under one roof.
Take a look at the TV Tower & Magtymguly Pyragy Monument
While the TV Tower itself is off-limits to the public, it dominates the skyline from its position on the southern hills. At its base stands a massive bronze statue of Magtymguly Pyragy, Turkmenistan’s most beloved poet.
He lived in the 18th century and is credited with shaping the Turkmen language through his humanist and philosophical verses. The statue is a rare nod to cultural legacy in a city otherwise dominated by modern monuments.
Do the Walk of Health (or a part of it)
This might be the most bizarre of all Ashgabat attractions. The Walk of Health is a 36-km concrete path (with a 22-km main section) that winds up and over the ridges south of the city.
It was commissioned by Saparmurat Niyazov, Turkmenistan’s first president, as a way to promote fitness. According to reports, he would have government officials walk parts of it, though he allegedly only ever took a helicopter to inspect it.
Unless you’re extremely committed, no one expects you to walk it, but just seeing it from afar is enough to grasp the scale and absurdity.
Visit the Monument of the Constitution
At 185 metres, this is the second-tallest structure in Turkmenistan and yet another white-marble-and-gold behemoth. The base features sculptural reliefs and fountains, while the column is topped with a golden spire.
The structure’s five ascending platforms again symbolise the country’s provinces. It’s located near a cluster of other grand monuments and ministries, forming part of Ashgabat’s larger-than-life governmental quarter.
Discover Other Monuments & Mega Statues in Ashgabat
Ashgabat has no shortage of peculiar monuments that feel like a blend of national pride, cult of personality, and extravagance. Among the most memorable are:
- Gurbanguly-on-a-Horse Monument | A golden equestrian statue of the second president atop a rearing steed. His name is inscribed in enormous gold letters behind him.
- Ruhnama Monument | Once the centrepiece of national ideology, this giant pink-and-green book statue is dedicated to Niyazov’s spiritual guidebook. It used to open mechanically to display video readings.
- Alabay Dog Monument | A golden statue honouring the national dog breed, beloved by President Berdimuhamedow. The base includes an LED screen showing clips of Alabays in daily life.
- Akhal-Teke Horse Monument | Another golden statue, this one dedicated to the prized local horse breed, known for its metallic sheen.
- Cycle Racing Monument | Larger-than-life bronze cyclists race eternally along a concrete ribbon near the sports complex.
Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque & Mausoleum
Located in the village of Kipchak, just outside of Ashgabat, the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is both grand and controversial. Commissioned by Saparmurat Niyazov (better known as Turkmenbashi), themosuqe can hold up to 10,000 worshippers.
The white marble structure has a large golden dome and four towering minarets. Inside, you would expect calligraphy to line the walls, but instead it’s latin lettering. And not just verses from the Quran, but also passages from the Ruhnama, Turkmenbashi’s spiritual-political manifesto.
This blend of religion and personal ideology led to criticism from religious authorities, but the mosque remains a powerful symbol of Niyazov’s rule.
Adjacent to the mosque is the Mausoleum of Turkmenbashi, where the former president is buried alongside his family. His tomb sits at the centre beneath a turquoise dome.
Go Souvenir Shipping at Ashgabat’s Russian Bazaar
Next on this list of things to do in Ashgabat is the Russian Bazaar (Gulistan Market) that offers a welcome change of pace. Housed in a Soviet-era building with Brutalist overtones and a colourful mosaic of Turkmen produce above its entrance, the bazaar is one of the liveliest places in the city.
Inside, you’ll find everything from fresh fruit and honey to local sweets, snacks, and textiles. It’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or just observe local life. We had a nice chat here with a Turkmen lady that was visiting her home country again from New York.
Just outside the market hall there’s some souvenir stands where you can pick up an English version of the Ruhnama. But you can also dress up in Turkmen attire here, including one of those bushy hats. Just chat with one of the souvenir salesmen.
Reflect in the Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque
This elegant white mosque wouldn’t look out of place in Istanbul and that’s intentional. It was built in honour of Ertuğrul Gazi, the father of Osman I, founder of the Ottoman Empire.
Funded by the Turkish government, the mosque features four towering minarets, intricate tilework, and a grand central dome. Inside, it’s quiet and cool, with patterned carpets and chandeliers.
It’s one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the country and a reminder of Turkmenistan’s strong ties with Turkey.
Have dinner with a view at CentralPark Restaurant
A meal at CentralPark is as much about the view as it is about the food. Located on the top floor of a high-rise building, it offers amazing nighttime views over Ashgabat’s illuminated skyline.
The menu includes international classics and local dishes, and service is prompt. We ate juicy steak here after a long day of sightseeing. Watching the neon city shimmer below while sipping a drink was the perfect way to end the day.
Cool down at Berkarar Mall
One of the few places in the city that actually feels busy, Berkarar is a modern shopping mall with escalators, glossy shopfronts, and a large supermarket.
While you’re unlikely to buy much, it’s an easy place to stock up on snacks, toiletries, or just escape the heat for a while. There’s a large supermarket in the basement to prepare for a trip on the train or a camping trip to Darvaza’s gas crater or Yangykala Canyon.
Visit Ashgabat Airport (for Photos!)
This might sound odd, but the new Ashgabat International Airport is worth a drive-by, even if you’re not flying.
Shaped like a giant bird in flight, the roof design resembles a falcon, a nod to the country’s symbols. The scale and symmetry are impressive, especially at sunset when the gold-tinted details catch the light. It’s often empty, which adds to the surreal feel.
More Things to Do in Ashgabat on Day Trips
If you have more time in Ashgabat, several fascinating places lie just outside the city limits. These destinations add variety to your trip, and a deeper look at Turkmenistan’s history, national pride, and natural wonders.
Discover Old Nisa (UNESCO World Heritage Site)
Roughly 15 km west of the city centre lies Old Nisa, the ancient capital of the Parthian Empire and one of Turkmenistan’s three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The site dates back to the 3rd century BCE and once served as a royal fortress for the Parthian kings. Archaeologists have uncovered wine stores, temples, and fortifications. Today though, much of it requires imagination to appreciate.
With minimal signage, a local guide is essential to explain the historical significance and layout of what was once one of the region’s most powerful cities.
Visit a Horse Farm | Home of the Akhal-Teke Horses
Turkmenistan is fiercely proud of its Akhal-Teke horses. These horses are often called the “heavenly horses” for their graceful build and shiny, metallic coats.
These animals are considered a national treasure, and a visit to a state-run or private horse farm near Ashgabat is a chance to see them up close.
We visited a breeding farm about 30 minutes from the city, where handlers proudly introduced us to their prized stallions and explained the strict training and care regimens.
If you’re lucky, you might even see a short demonstration of the horses in motion. The passion and pride surrounding these horses reflect their symbolic importance as they even appear on the national emblem.
Swim at Kow Ata Underground Lake
About 90 minutes from Ashgabat lies one of Turkmenistan’s more unusual natural attractions: Kow Ata, an underground lake located inside a warm sulphur cave. The name means “Father of Caves,” and the water here maintains a constant temperature of around 33°C year-round.
You descend a long staircase deep into the cave, where a humid and slightly eggy-smelling atmosphere awaits. While the water is murky and the facilities basic, many locals believe in its healing properties and come here to bathe.
It’s not exactly a luxury spa experience, but it’s certainly memorable and makes for a refreshing (if slightly odd) detour from the marble facades of Ashgabat. I wouldn’t go out of my way to get there though, but if you’re visiting further west it’s a natural stop.
Food and Nightlife in Ashgabat
Ashgabat might not be known for a booming nightlife or global food scene, but you’ll find some surprisingly pleasant places to eat, grab a drink, and soak up the city’s atmosphere.
Restaurants in Ashgabat Worth Trying
There are a handful of other restaurants serving decent meals, often located in hotels or modern buildings near central squares. Menus typically feature a mix of local dishes like plov, kebabs, and lagman, alongside international staples like pasta and grilled meat.
Expect restaurant staff to be polite but often not fluent in English. Your guide can help translate or recommend dishes. In most places, beer and wine are available, though choices may be limited.
- CentralPark | One of our favourite meals was at CentralPark Restaurant, a rooftop spot near Independence Park. It offers good international food, a relaxing vibe, and sweeping views over Ashgabat’s neon-lit skyline, a surreal and unforgettable dining setting.
- Köz Döner | A favourite of our tour guide, and now also ours is this modern döner restaurant where you can also get other dishes. Right opposite the university with the foreign languages institute.
Tea Culture & Local Sweets
Like elsewhere in Central Asia, tea culture is strong in Turkmenistan. You’ll often be offered a pot of green tea after a meal, sometimes served with small sweets or dried fruit. It’s worth embracing as the tea is refreshing, and it’s a subtle but important part of Turkmen hospitality.
Ashgabat Nightlife: Low-Key But Lively
Ashgabat’s nightlife is generally quiet, but not entirely absent. You won’t find bars on every corner, but some hotel lounges and rooftop restaurants do serve drinks and stay open late.
The city’s large open parks also come alive in the evenings. Locals gather with friends or families, children rollerblade along wide boulevards, and street musicians create a lively yet relaxed atmosphere.
Tip: Especially near Bagt Köşgi and Independence Park, you’ll find a calm but social nightlife that’s more about enjoying the public space than clubbing.
Practical Travel Tips for Visiting Ashgabat
- You need a guide | Independent travel is not allowed in Turkmenistan. A registered local guide will take care of logistics, permits, and translations making the experience far smoother than it might sound at first. Check out my Turkmenistan Travel Tips for details on how to contact our tour guide Murad.
- Have your passport handy | Expect occasional police checks, especially around monuments and central boulevards. Your guide will usually handle this, but keep your documents accessible.
- Carry cash | Your international credit or debit card will not work in Turkmenistan, so bring enough USD in small denominations to exchange. Your guide will know how to get the best rate.
- Photography rules apply | Avoid snapping photos of government buildings or military personnel. When in doubt, ask your guide.
- Dress code | There’s no strict dress code, but modest clothing is recommended, especially when visiting mosques or rural areas. We wore shorts and t-shirt almost everywhere and had no problems.
- Connectivity: Mobile internet is very limited. You can obtain a local SIM card through your guide, though plan to be off-grid during your time in Ashgabat and Turkmenistan. Download offline maps and bring printed bookings or copies of your itinerary just in case.
- Travel insurance: Always travel with comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical care and trip interruptions. Check out Heymondo, which covers both health and travel-related issues. Readers of Next Journey Ahead get 5% off.
Final Thoughts on Ashgabat
Ashgabat is one of the most surreal cities I’ve ever visite. Part futuristic dreamscape, part Soviet legacy, and part carefully curated stage set.
Behind the marble façades and oversized monuments, you’ll find quieter moments: children playing in neon-lit parks, locals greeting you with genuine curiosity, and unexpected patches of daily life amid the grandeur. It’s a fascinating start or finale to any Turkmenistan itinerary.
Also read: Complete Turkmenistan Travel Guide
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Planning a trip to Central Asia or Turkmenistan? Then take a look at my latest Central Asia and Turkmenistan articles below:
- 7 Incredible Things to See and Do in Turkmenistan
- 15 Things To Do in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s Surreal Capital
- Ancient Merv | Explore One of Central Asia’s Oldest Cities
- Yangykala Canyon | How to Visit Turkmenistan’s Grand Canyon
- Darvaza Gas Crater | How To Visit Turkmenistan’s Fiery Heart
- Turkmenistan Itinerary | One Week Across the Desert
- Turkmenistan Travel Tips | What To Know Before You Go
