In this guide, I’ll show you exactly what to do in Khiva, from the best sights and viewpoints to where to eat, where to stay, and how to make the most of your visit—including a few honest tips about the city’s entrance ticket system.
We arrived in Khiva on a slow but comfortable Soviet-era sleeper train from Bukhara, and rolled into town already charmed by the journey. Over the next two days, we explored ancient mosques with carved wooden columns, climbed minarets for sweeping views of the old town, and watched the sunset light up the city walls from the Kuhna Ark.
But not everything about Khiva is straightforward. While the sights are stunning, the pricing structure is fragmented and adds up quickly—something worth knowing before you go. Still, despite the extra tickets and the occasional frustration, Khiva absolutely captivated us.
Also read: Uzbekistan Itinerary | 10 Days Of Silk Road Cities & The Aral Sea
A Short History of Khiva
- Khiva’s rise to prominence | Khiva has been inhabited for over 1,500 years. But it rose to real prominence in the 16th century as the capital of the Khanate of Khiva. Strategically located near the Amu Darya River and the ancient Silk Road, it became a major centre for trade, religion, and political power in Central Asia.
- Silk Road (slave) trade | Much of Khiva’s history is tied to its position on important caravan routes between Persia, Russia, and China. However, the city also gained notoriety as a centre of the slave trade during the 18th and 19th centuries.
- Russian conquest and modern-day preservation | Khiva became a Russian protectorate in 1873 and was later absorbed into the Soviet Union. While no longer a political capital, Khiva is now one of the best-preserved Silk Road cities in Central Asia.
- The Ichan Kala and its iconic monuments | Today, visitors come to see the Ichan Kala, Khiva’s inner walled city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Within these mud-brick walls you’ll find some of Uzbekistan’s finest Islamic architecture.
How Much Time Do You Need in Khiva?
Khiva may be compact, but there’s plenty to see—and the pace is best kept slow. We spent a day and a half exploring the city, and that felt just right.
Most sights are concentrated within the Ichan Kala, and you can easily reach everything on foot. But to truly enjoy the city, take your time: linger in courtyards, climb the minaret, watch the sunset, and enjoy a long lunch.
An extra day? | If you have more time, you could easily extend your stay by a day to take in some of the surrounding area. From ancient desert fortresses to epic overnights at the Aral Sea, Khiva makes a great base for further exploration.
Where to Stay in Khiva
Khiva’s historic centre is small and almost everything worth seeing is within the Ichan Kala. Many hotels and guesthouses are located within a few minutes’ walk of the main sights, so you don’t need to worry much about location. Just pick a place that matches your style and budget.
Our Pick: Siyovush Hotel
We stayed at Siyovush Hotel within the city walls and close to the Islam Khoja Minaret. This part of the Ichan Kala can be reached by cars, which is a nice bonus.
The owner was incredibly welcoming and full of local tips—not just on what to visit, but also on where to eat. The rooms were clean, the breakfast was fantastic, and the location couldn’t be more convenient.
Other Recommended Options in Khiva
If you’re looking for alternatives, many travellers also recommend:
- Orient Star Khiva Hotel | A beautifully restored former madrassah, now a hotel right next to the Kalta Minor Minaret. Historic setting with modern comforts.
- Muso To’ra Hotel | A stylish boutique hotel with traditional touches and a great rooftop view. Situated just a few minutes from the Kalta Minor Minaret.
For more recommendations also read: Where to Stay in Uzbekistan
What to See and Do in Khiva
The magic of Khiva starts the moment you pass through one of its ancient city gates and step into the Ichan Kala. The Ichan Kala is the walled inner city that feels like a perfectly preserved time capsule.
With minarets rising above ochre brick walls, intricately tiled madrassahs on every corner, and quiet backstreets that haven’t changed in centuries, Khiva is compact, walkable, and endlessly photogenic.
How the Khiva Ticketing System Works
To visit most of Khiva’s major attractions inside the Ichan Kala, you’ll need to buy a 2-day pass. This ticket costs 250,000 UZS (~20 USD) (in June 2025) and includes access to many museums, madrassahs, and mosques. It can be purchased at the West Gate of the Ichan Kala. Most attractions are open between 10am – 6pm, though some stay open a little later.
However, several key highlights are not included in the standard pass and require separate entrance fees. These include:
- Kuhna Ark Watchtower (for sunset views)
- Islam Khoja Minaret (the tallest in Khiva)
- Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
- Access to the city walls (north or south section)
While these extra fees add up, we still found the views and experiences worth it — especially at sunset. Just be aware in advance that the total cost of seeing all major highlights will exceed 500,000 UZS per person.
Pricing has increased significantly in recent years, and the current structure can feel inconsistent, but it’s still good value compared to most destinations around the world.
Tip: Check the back of your ticket — it lists all included sights, and the numbers help you navigate through them.
Kalta Minor Minaret
Just steps inside the West Gate, the Kalta Minor Minaret immediately stops you in your tracks. Short, wide, and wrapped in brilliant bands of green and turquoise tiles, it was originally meant to be the tallest minaret in the Islamic world.
Construction was halted after the khan’s death though, but even unfinished, it’s one of Khiva’s most iconic landmarks. You’ll pass it again and again, but that first encounter is unforgettable.
Unfortunately, the Kalta Minor Minaret is not open to the public. Although funnily enough, one of the girls we shared the train cabin with managed to get up there escorted by a policeman.
Kuhna Ark & the Summer Mosque
Next, we headed into the Kuhna Ark, Khiva’s original citadel and royal residence. Just inside the gate is the Summer Mosque, one of the most visually striking corners of the city. Its entrance is framed by slender wooden columns and stunning tilework in soft blue tones, adorned with delicate floral and plant motifs in white.
A few steps further you’ll find the entrance to the throne hall. Step through the gate and you’re surrounded by vivid green walls and a richly decorated ceiling.
The entire space feels intimate but regal, and it’s easy to imagine the khans once holding court here under Khiva’s blazing sun.
Come back around sunset to visit the watchtower
We initially skipped the watchtower (an extra 100,000 UZS), but eventually returned to catch the sunset from above the Ark. And we’re so glad we did.
The view from the top is arguably the best in the city, with golden light illuminating the city’s rooftops and mud-brick walls. We ended up staying here for well over an hour, just taking in the shifting colours.
Islam Khoja Minaret & Museum
Early the next morning, we paid for another extra ticket. This time to climb the Islam Khoja Minaret, the tallest in Khiva. The staircase is narrow and steep, but the panoramic views from the top are absolutely worth it.
Attached to the base of the minaret is a museum, which turned out to be one of the best we visited in Khiva. It features an impressive collection of Uzbek and Turkmen carpets, wood carvings, jewellery, and illuminated manuscripts. A great place to cool down and soak in some extra context.
Khiva Silk Workshop
On our way to the Juma Mosque, we stumbled upon the Khiva Silk Workshop. And it turned out to be one of the most memorable stops of the day. Housed in a former madrassah, the workshop offers a hands-on look at the full process of carpet-making, from silk cocoons to hand-tied knots.
We learned how natural dyes are created, saw women working on intricate patterns, and even spotted a few silk caterpillars in action.
The experience felt refreshingly genuine—not just a shop, but a place where the tradition is still very much alive. Of course, you can browse and buy here too, but there’s no pressure.
Juma Mosque
Just around the corner is one of Khiva’s most unusual and atmospheric buildings: the Juma Mosque. It doesn’t have soaring minarets or tiled facades. Instead, you step into a dark, cool hall supported by 218 wooden columns, some of which date back to the 10th century!
The light filtering in from slits in the roof creates a pattern of shadows that feels almost cinematic. It’s a quiet, contemplative space—very different from the grander mosques in Samarkand or Bukhara.
City Walls of Khiva
The mudbrick walls encircling the Ichan Kala are among Khiva’s most striking features. You can walk a section of the ramparts for panoramic views over the old city — just note that this requires a separate ticket not included in the standard 2-day pass.
The northern section is generally recommended for better views. While the panoramas may not be as dramatic as from the Islam Khoja Minaret or Kuhna Ark watchtower, walking the walls gives you a sense of the scale and defensive purpose of the old city.
Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
This richly decorated mausoleum honours Khiva’s patron saint, Pahlavan Mahmoud — a revered poet, philosopher, and wrestler. Its bright turquoise dome is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
Although entrance requires an additional ticket, it’s considered one of the most beautiful interiors in Khiva. The tilework inside is especially elaborate, with deep blues and intricate patterns.
Unfortunately, we somehow missed visiting it during our stay — but based on its reputation and prominence, it’s a must-see.
Tash Khauli Palace
The last major highlight of our visit was the Tash Khauli Palace, or the Stone Palace. The palace was built in the 19th century as the new royal residence. While the entrance is fairly modest, once inside though, you’ll find a stunning inner courtyard filled with carved wooden pillars, tiled walls, and ghanch plasterwork.
We were especially taken by the harem quarters, where each room opens onto intricately decorated spaces meant for the khan’s wives and concubines. It’s one of the most richly adorned buildings in the city and feels like the final jewel in Khiva’s architectural crown.
Other Sights Around the Ichan Kala
Beyond the major landmarks, Khiva is full of smaller madrassahs, museums, and cultural corners that are easy to explore as you wander through the old town. While many of them now house modest exhibitions—on everything from musical instruments to Khivan history—the buildings themselves are often more impressive than what’s inside.
Some exhibitions are hit or miss, but it’s worth poking your head into a few, especially when they display old photographs or artefacts from daily life. These give you glimpses of how Khiva once functioned beyond its palaces and minarets.
We also came across street performances—including one comical theatre sketch involving a stuffed chicken that had kids in stitches—and live Uzbek music echoing off the tiled walls. It’s moments like these that remind you Khiva isn’t just a monument to the past—it’s a place where people still live, gather, and celebrate.
Map of Khiva Highlights
To help you plan your time in Khiva and navigate the Ichan Kala with ease, I’ve pinned all the key places mentioned in this guide onto one map. From towering minarets to lesser-known workshops and restaurants with a view, it’s all here in one place.
(Multi-)Day Trips from Khiva
Khiva may feel remote, but it’s a great launchpad for exploring the desert landscapes and ancient history of western Uzbekistan, the Karakalpakstan region.
Whether you’re planning a full adventure or simply want to make your travel day more interesting, here are the best day trips and overnight excursions to consider.
2-Day Full Aral Sea Adventure
For the full Aral Sea experience, join this 2-day tour that ventures deep into Karakalpakstan. After visiting Moynaq’s Ship Graveyard, you’ll continue to the edge of the remaining Aral Sea. Spend the night in a remote yurt camp, surrounded by endless steppe and starry skies.
The journey is long and rough, but unforgettable with plenty of sights to see along the way. This trip is a window into Uzbekistan’s ecological history—and a true off-the-grid escape.
Also read: Visiting The Aral Sea & Karakalpakstan | A 2-Day Trip From Khiva
1-Day Trip to Moynaq (Aral Sea Region)
Short on time? You can still get a glimpse of the Aral Sea’s dramatic past on a long day trip to Moynaq. Once a bustling fishing port, it’s now home to the haunting Ship Graveyard, where rusting vessels lie on dry desert sand.
You’ll also pass through Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, and can stop at the Savitsky Museum if time allows. This option doesn’t take you to the current Aral Sea shoreline, but it still paints a powerful picture of what was lost.
From Khiva into Turkmenistan
Thanks to its location near the Shavat border, Khiva makes a perfect jumping-off point for a trip into Turkmenistan. From here, you can cross into the country and start your journey in Konye-Urgench, one of Turkmenistan’s three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Since independent travel isn’t permitted, most visitors arrange a guided tour that includes the border crossing, transport, and logistics. That’s exactly what we did—starting in Khiva and spending an unforgettable week in Turkmenistan, visiting surreal places like the Darvaza Gas Crater, Ashgabat, and Yangykala Canyon.
Also read: Turkmenistan Itinerary | One Week Across The Desert
Where to Eat and Drink in Khiva
Khiva’s food scene is compact but satisfying. Most restaurants are located in or just outside the Ichan Kala. Prices vary a lot—so does the quality. Here are the places we tried, plus a few thoughts to help you avoid the usual tourist traps.
- Ayvon Restaurant | This was our favourite meal in Khiva. Ayvon feels a little more refined without being too expensive. We tried several local pasta dishes here—like noodles with dill and pumpkin-filled ravioli. You can lunch inside, and dine on the large rooftop terrace.
- Terrassa Café and Restaurant | If you’re looking for dinner with a view, head to Terrassa. Perfect for watching the sunset. Yes, it’s pricier than average, but the views make it worth it. Book ahead if you want a good table.
- Teahouse Mirza Boshi | This spot is right in the heart of the Ichan Kala. We went here for lunch on our second day and had the dill pasta again. It was fine—but not as good as at Ayvon. The place felt a bit rushed and geared toward big tour groups. Not bad, but not memorable either.
- Other options | Many hotels and guesthouses, like ours at Siyovush, serve excellent breakfasts. For snacks or tea, there are small stalls dotted around the main squares. We saw a few people recommending Khorezm Art Restaurant or Bir Gumbaz Café, but we didn’t have time to try them ourselves.
Also read: Uzbek Food Guide | 13 Traditional Dishes To Try On Your Trip
How to Get to Khiva and Around
Train | We travelled from Bukhara to Khiva by train. It was an old Soviet sleeper train, but surprisingly comfortable. The ride took around five hours, and we shared a soft-seat cabin with two other travellers. Get your train tickets on the official Uzbekistan Railways website or app.
From the station, it’s a short taxi ride to the Ichan Kala. You can use Yandex Go to order a ride for a fixed price.
Also read: Uzbekistan Train Travel Guide | What To Know Before You Go
Transfer Tour | You can also take a transfer tour between Bukhara and Khiva. It takes longer than the train, but you’ll get to see some ancient fortresses in Karakalpakstan along the way.
The highlights include:
- Toprak Kala | a vast mudbrick complex once home to a Khorezm king
- Kyzyl Kala | a small, reddish fort with striking views
- Ayaz Kala | the most dramatic, perched on a hill overlooking the plains
These ancient qalas (fortresses) date back over 1,500 years and are mostly unrestored, giving a real sense of discovery. This is a fantastic way to turn a transfer day into an adventure. Check this tour out for example:
Also read: What To Do In Bukhara | A Guide To The Soul Of The Silk Road
By Plane | You can also fly into or out of Urgench (UGC) international airport. Handy when you want to start or finish your Uzbekistan itinerary here rather than in Tashkent or Samarkand. The airport serves domestic flights, but also Turkish Airlines for example.
Getting Around Khiva | You won’t need a taxi once you’re inside the Ichan Kala. The entire old town is fully walkable. Most sights are just a few minutes apart.
Final Tips for Visiting Khiva
- Ask your host for local tips | Our hotel owner gave great advice on where to eat and which part of the city walls to climb. Locals often know best.
- Buy your ticket at the West Gate | The 2-day ticket for the Ichan Kala is sold at the West Gate. It includes many sights but not all—so budget extra for the best experiences.
- Travel insurance is essential, especially if visiting remote areas. Readers of Next Journey Ahead get 5% off Heymondo travel insurance that covers Uzbekistan.
- Don’t skip the minarets | Climbing both the Kuhna Ark watchtower (for sunset) and the Islam Khoja Minaret (for panoramic views) is absolutely worth the extra cost.
- Take it slow | Khiva is small. Don’t rush it. Wander the backstreets, sit in the courtyards, and let the quiet rhythm of the city sink in.
- Stay connected in Uzbekistan with eSIM: Sign up for Saily here, fill out my referral code MARTIN84627 at check-out to get 5 USD off your first eSIM purchase.
- Beware the tourist markup | Some cafés in the old town are aimed at big tour groups. Prices can be high, and the food average.
- Carry cash | Credit cards are accepted in a few restaurants and hotels, but most places still run on cash. Have enough Uzbek som on hand for entrance fees and meals. There’s an ATM right next to the West Gate entrance of the Ichan Kala.
Also read: Uzbekistan Travel Tips | What You Need To Know Before You Go
Final Thoughts on Visiting Khiva
Khiva is compact, walkable, and super photogenic — but it’s also more than just a museum city. Its ancient mudbrick walls, blue-tiled minarets, and maze of madrassahs tell the story of a city that once marked the edge of the known world.
We loved watching the sun set from the Kuhna Ark, chatting with artisans in hidden courtyards, and trying Khivan takes on traditional Uzbek food. Yes, the entrance fees and ticketing system can be a bit costly, but the city’s atmosphere more than made up for it.
Two days in Khiva is ideal for a first visit, but don’t skip the chance to explore further — especially if the Aral Sea or desert fortresses are on your list.
Any questions about Khiva? Let me know in the comments below or message me on Instagram if you have any questions.
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Planning a trip to Uzbekistan? Continue planning your trip beyond Khiva with my latest articles on Central Asia and Uzbekistan:
- 15 Incredible Things to Do in Uzbekistan You Shouldn’t Miss
- Uzbek Food Guide | 13 Traditional Dishes to Try on Your Trip
- Uzbekistan Train Travel Guide | What to Know Before You Go
- Visiting the Aral Sea & Karakalpakstan | A 2-Day Trip from Khiva
- What to Do in Khiva | Exploring Uzbekistan’s Open-Air Museum
- What to Do in Bukhara | A Guide To The Soul Of The Silk Road
- Samarkand Travel Guide | Uzbekistan’s Stunning Silk Road City
- What to See and Do in Tashkent | One Day in Uzbekistan’s Capital
- Where to Stay in Uzbekistan | My Favourite Hotels & Guesthouses
- Uzbekistan Itinerary | 10 Days of Silk Road Cities & the Aral Sea
- Uzbekistan Travel Tips | What You Need to Know Before You Go
