Balkan Road Trip | One week in Macedonia, Albania & Kosovo

Get ready for a week long road trip through three Balkan countries. Start in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia and then make your way to Lake Ohrid. From there you’re crossing the border into Albania.

After stops in UNESCO listed Berat and the Greek ruins of Apollonia you continue to Tirana, Albania’s capital. From Tirana it’s time to drive north to fjord-like Komani Lake. The final stretch back to Skopje goes via Prizren, the most beautiful city in Kosovo.

More time available than just one week?

When you have more than one week of time available to complete this amazing road trip, then keep on reading. All the way at the end of this article I will give you some easy to implement options. That way you can customise this itinerary and make it your own.

How to get around on your Balkan Road Trip

Before you can embark on your road trip through the Balkans you’ll need a car. Got your own car? Great! You’re all set.

Don’t have your own car? My advice is to fly into Skopje and rent a car there. I found that renting from North Macedonia is easiest when you want to take the car abroad to Albania and Kosovo.

Some of the roads (especially on your way to Lake Komani) are really bad, so my suggestion is to hire a SUV or crossover (doesn’t have to be a 4×4 though).

Go to booking.com to find the best car rental deal. For our Peugeot 2008 we paid €340 for 7 days (with Sixt), which I think is a pretty good deal.

Day 0 | Arrive in Skopje

Start your Balkan road trip adventure in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia. Why start in Skopje? I found that it’s easiest to rent a car here that can cross borders to Albania and Kosovo. Read more about renting a car in the ‘how to get around’ section below.

If you arrive early in the morning you can skip this day and start the itinerary right away at Day 1. Alternatively, you can spend some time in Skopje to explore the city’s sights, such as the faux neoclassical buildings and the bazaar.

Where to stay in Skopje: Doubletree by Hilton Skopje

Day 1 | Skopje to Lake Ohrid via Tetovo

Distance: +/- 200 km
Drive time: +/- 03:30 hrs

Today you will drive from Skopje to stunning Lake Ohrid. On the way you can stop at Matka Canyon and the Tetovo painted mosque.

Explore Matka Canyon in the morning

After breakfast in your hotel, drive to the gorgeous Matka Canyon, which is just 30-40 minutes drive away from Skopje. It’s easy to park at Matka Canyon, but be there early during summer, because it could get busy.

Matka Canyon is a stunning piece of North Macedonian nature. The amazing cliffs and crystal clear waters offer the perfect backdrop for your first morning in the Balkans.

Activities at Matka Canyon

It’s totally free to visit Matka Canyon, although for some activities you have to pay (€3-€10 depending on the activity). The most popular activity is a 30-minute boat trip on the lake. Another cool activity is to rent a kayak for an hour and explore the canyon from the water yourself.

You can also go on a hike around the lake (one hour, one-way), or go on a steep and challenging hike up to the monastery of St. Nikola Sisevski. Around the hotel and close to the car parking you can find even more monastery (ruins).

Finally you can jump into the water and go for a swim, but keep in mind that the water is very very cold! Finish you visit to Matka Canyon with some coffee or lunch at the hotel. Afterwards, continue your Balkan road trip by leaving Matka Canyon no later than 2pm.

Tetovo Painted Mosque

The second stop today is at Tetovo, which is about a 30-40 minute drive away from Skopje. Overall Tetovo is a bit of an uneventful city, so don’t bother spending any time here except for at the impressive Tetovo Mosque. The mosque is renowned for its stunning architecture and fully painted interior.

Built in the 15th century the mosque stands symbol for the region’s rich cultural heritage and religious tolerance. You can see both Ottoman and Albanian architectural styles which makes it truly unique. Inside you can see pretty much all walls and ceilings painted in the most beautiful designs.

The entrance to the mosque’s ground, as well as the interior is free. But, remember that this is a religious site and that it is currently still used as a place of worship. So don’t forget to dress appropriately.

Final stretch to Lake Ohrid

When you’re all done done at the mosque, then continue your way along the winding North Macedonian roads. Be prepared for a lot of road works, but also keep an eye on your speed, because there usually are many checkpoints.

But after another 2 hours or so, you’ve reached the destination of the day, picture perfect Lake Ohrid.

Where to stay in Ohrid: Aleksandar Villa & Spa

Day 2 | Explore the highlights of Lake Ohrid

Distance: +/- 60 km
Drive time: 1:30 hrs

Lake Ohrid is probably one of the first things you heard about when planning your visit to the Balkans. And today you will explore some of the highlights along the North Macedonian side of this magnificent lake.

Balkan Road Trip highlight: Wander through Ohrid

Start your day with a visit to the historical town of Ohrid, which is known for its cobblestone streets and Byzantine churches. Either walk to town from your hotel, or take the car and park at Parking Pristaniste.

Visit the Byzantine church of St. Sophia

From there it’s an easy walk through town to discover all the highlights. Start by wandering through the little streets of Ohrid. Make sure you stop and peek inside the Church of St. Sophia, where the interior walls are adorned with Byzantine frescoes. Continue your exploration of Ohrid by walking along the boardwalk that starts behind St. Sophia’s Church.

Admire the views from Church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo

As you follow the boardwalk along the shores of the lake you will reach North Macedonia’s most recognisable landmark: the Church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo. The Church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo (Church of St. John) sits on top of a rock overlooking Ohrid Lake. The views from here are without a doubt one of the most breathtaking in all of North Macedonia.

Continue to the fortress and ancient Greek theatre

When you’re done jaw-dropping continue up the hill behind the church to reach the fortress. This site was closed for reconstruction when we visited, but if it’s reopened take a peek inside and perhaps walk along the walls of the fortress. Before you head back into town grab a drink or perhaps some (early) lunch at the Fort Cafe that boasts some stunning views.

On your way back to the car make sure not to miss out on visiting the ancient Greek theatre which was built in 200 BC! And if you want to visit another Byzantine church take a look inside the Church of Holy Mary Peryvleptos.

Visit the Monastery of Sveti Naum

Back at the car it’s time for you to drive along the shores to the very southern tip of Lake Ohrid. There’s not a lot of traffic the closer you get to the Albanian border, but take it easy because the roads are winding and quite narrow.

When you’re almost at the border you’ll see the signs for the Monastery of Sveti Naum. This 10th century picturesque religious complex features a main church, which showcases an impressive blend of Byzantine and medieval Macedonian architectural styles. On the inside of the church you will see beautiful frescoes depicting various religious scenes.

The surrounding area offers you a peaceful atmosphere, which makes it an ideal spot for contemplation and relaxation. You can even bring your bathing suit on warm days for some time on the beach and perhaps a swim in the lake.

The Monastery of Sveti Naum holds great cultural and historical significance, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So if you are interested in architectural beauty, tranquil surroundings, and historical importance then the monastery is a must-visit destination.

If time permits include some optional stops

The day is already packed as it is, especially on a hot summer day, but there are a few optional stops on your way back to the town of Ohrid.

• Trpejca | One of the towns where you can have a brief stop is Trpejca. Here you can go on a leisurely stroll along the waterfront, or enjoy a cold drink in a lakeside cafe.
• Pestani | Another small town with a similar charm is Pestani. Both towns have a pebbled beach that are perfect for dipping your toes in the crystal clear waters.
• Bay of Bones Museum | Here you can find a reconstructed prehistoric settlement that is built on wooden piles. This unique open-air museum gives you a glimpse into the ancient culture, technology, and way of life of the people that inhabited this region thousands of years ago.

Finish day 2 of your Balkan road trip with dinner in restaurant The Lion Ohrid situated along the waterfront. Before, during, or after dinner keep an eye outside so you won’t miss the incredible sunset.

Day 3 | Continue your Balkan Road Trip to Berat

Distance: +/- 160 km
Drive time: 3:30 hrs (incl. border crossing)

This morning you bid farewell to Lake Ohrid and continue your journey towards Berat in Albania. That means you will have to cross a border today, which should take about an hour to reach. Our experience at the border crossing was very smooth. Before we knew it we were in Albania!

Welcome to Berat

When you’ve crossed the border it should take another 2:30 hrs to reach your first destination in Albania, Berat. The UNESCO-listed Berat is also known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”, and you will quickly see why.

Berat is divided into two distinct districts: the hilltop castle area and the lower Old Town. The castle area is known as Kala, while the bustling lower Old Town consists of Mangalem (at the foot of the castle) and Gorica (across river Osum).

Explore Berat’s castle hilltop area Kala

Exploring the cobbled streets of Kala feels like stepping back in time, with its medieval fortress, ancient churches, and panoramic views that stretch across the city and surrounding landscapes. Of course you cannot miss the delicious Albanian cuisine either. There’s quite a couple of restaurants dotted throughout Kala’s streets. We had a delicious lunch outside at Temi Albanian Food.

Spend some hours walking around the castle and visit the Onufri Museum inside the Church of the Dormition of St Mary. There’s also an eerie looking water reservoir inside the inner fortress.

Continue at riverside Mangalem and Gorica down the hill

Down in Mangalem, the picturesque Ottoman houses and the iconic White Mosque contribute to the city’s timeless atmosphere. But besides the beautiful architecture you will also find several cultural sights to see. For example check out the Ethnographic Museum, the vibrant arts scene and shop for some local crafts.

Finish your day at Hotel Ansel with delicious dinner at the hotel’s restaurant and a good night sleep.

Where to stay in Berat: Hotel Ansel

Day 4 | Berat to Tirana via Apollonia

Distance: +/- 190 km
Drive time: 2:45 hrs

Today you’re driving to Tirana, the capital of Albania. But, as you leave Berat, definitely make a detour to the ancient city of Apollonia.

Missed seeing anything in Berat? If you want you can take it easy this morning. After breakfast you can go for another walk around town and perhaps visit some of the attractions that you didn’t get to yesterday.

Drive to Apollonia Archaeological Park

When you’re all done in Berat, then continue your Balkan road trip to the Apollonia Archaeological Park. The drive there should take you just over one hour.

Entering archaeological sights like Apollonia, especially in early morning or late afternoon sun, transports my mind to the movie Gladiator. Do you remember that scene where Russel Crowe walks through a field of grain? That’s the feeling I get when entering these type of ancient sights. Now the scene that follows that scene I mentioned is gruesome unfortunately, but anyway…

Explore the ruins, admire the views and learn about the complex in the museum

As you stroll through Apollonia’s ruins, you’re stepping right into history. You will find a lot of old structures, like temples, theaters, and an agora, where people used to gather and do their thing. Next to the archaeological site you will find a museum which is a true treasure trove. What’s on display will give you a peek into what life was like back then. It’s almost like stepping into a time capsule.

And picture this: Apollonia is surrounded by rolling hills and the Adriatic Sea. The views seriously are something out of a postcard!

Continue your drive to Tirana

At the end of the day continue your drive to the vibrant capital city of Tirana, where a fascinating blend of history and modernity awaits. And also a sprawling nightlife. So after you’ve parked the car hit the Blloku bars and cafes.

Where to stay in Tirana: Hilton Garden Inn Tirana

Day 5 | Explore Albania’s capital Tirana

Today you can dedicate a full day to Tirana, so there’s no need to drive anywhere. You can easily explore the city on your own, or join a walking tour for a more in-depth visit of the city. Or if you’re a foodie, what better way than to join a full day City & Food tour.

We totally loved Tirana and to be honest I think it’s my favourite capital city of all the Balkan countries. I have to say though that I haven’t visited Sarajevo or Podgorica yet. In my mind Tirana was going to be very dark and grey, but in reality it turned out to be the complete opposite.

Start your day at Skanderbeg Square

Start your day at Skanderbeg Square and surrounding area, which is the bustling heart of Tirana. Snap some pics, soak up the local scene and visit some of the sights here, such as the Et’hem Bey Mosque and the Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Church. Or pop in to the excellent National History Museum which is Albania’s largest museum.

Another must visit sight is Bunk’Art 2, because this is where you can dive deep (quite literally) into Albania’s dark history. This museum is housed inside a nuclear bunker which adds to the eeriness. Luckily though, the bunker has never been used for its purpose. Bunk’Art 2 is easy to visit because it’s right in Tirana’s centre, while its larger cousin Bunk’Art is quite a bit outside the city.

Back outside for some much needed fresh air it’s time for lunch. We loved Noor Coffee which is situated along a leafy street. You can sit inside, but on a nice day also outside on the rooftop. Other cool options are Millennium Garden and Noki which are both situated in pedestrianised Murat Toptani Street.

Continue to the Pyramid of Tirana

After lunch walk pass the Justinian Wall and Tirana Castle, and check out art installation The Cloud by Reja. And then it’s time for you to cross the Lane river/canal to find the Pyramid.

The Pyramid of Tirana has only recently (in 2023) been reopened after a long period of renovations. The opening took place with Albania’s Prime Minister and the Mayor of Tirana and both of them expressed big ambitions for the site. For now the Pyramid is a great place to hang out with the locals and to take in the views from the top.

Finish the day in funky Blloku

All done at the Pyramid? Then next up, hit up the funky Blloku District. Check out the colorful street art, boutique shops, and hip cafes. You’ll totally feel the creative pulse of the city here.

For dinner make reservations in fancy SALT restaurant and afterwards check out the bars, such as Colonial Cocktails Academy and Radio Bar. Or join a pub crawl if you’re in a party mood.

Day 6 | Drive from Tirana to Komani Lake

Distance: +/- 130 km
Drive time: 3:00 hrs

Today your only activity is to drive to Komani Lake, so take it easy this morning, or check out a part of Tirana you haven’t seen yet. Also on your way out of the city you could stop by at Bunk’Art.

Hit the road again to Komani Lake

All done in Tirana, then leave the bustling city behind you and drive to the scenic Komani Lake, which is the gateway to the Albanian Alps. As you get closer and closer to your hotel for the night, the views get ever more stunning.

And although that may sound like it will be a breeze to drive to Komani Lake it definitely is not! The closer you get to your destination today the worse the roads get. So be prepared. But just take it slow and you should be fine.

When you’ve checked in to your hotel (I suggest Hotel Villa Franceze) explore the grounds surrounding the hotel. You can visit the beach next to the Drin lake or go for a walk on the Koman hike trail.

Prepare for Tomorrow’s Ferry Crossing Across Komani Lake

There aren’t really any shops in Koman, except for a small place next to the Komanit bridge. And there isn’t really anything to buy on the Komani Lake Ferry tomorrow either. So stock up on anything you may need before you hit the final stretch of the road today.

There’s a good Spar supermarket on the corner of the SH1 and SH28 roads. Dinner in Hotel Villa Franceze is delicious and home made though, so you can rely on that as well.

Where to stay in Komani Lake: Hotel Villa Franceze

Day 7 | Cross Komani Lake, Explore Prizren & Finish Your Balkan Road Trip in Skopje

Distance: +/- 250 km
Drive time: 3:45 hrs

On the final day of your Balkan road trip get up early and embark on a memorable journey across Komani Lake. Afterwards drive back to Skopje via Prizren in Kosovo. It’s quite a big day of driving, but the ferry across Lake Komani and the city of Prizren make it worth all the effort.

Cross Komani Lake by ferry

From Hotel Villa Franceze it will take you just a few minutes to get to the ferry terminal of Komani Lake. Ferry terminal might be a bit of an overstatement actually, but still it’s the place where you have to (in reverse) drive you car onto the boat.

We chose to go with the Berisha ferry, because it departs at 9am. The ferry takes about 2.5 hours to go across to Fierze. On the way there you can marvel at the stunning landscapes as you cruise along the turquoise waters of the lake.

It really feels like riding on a Norwegian fjord at times, but perhaps a little less dramatic. Unless you have bad weather and get stuck like we did, but I may post about that some other time.

If all goes according to plan you should arrive in Fierze before noon. On the other side continue the road to Prizren in Kosovo, so keep your passports and car papers ready for the border crossing. The drive there should take around 1:45 hrs.

Tip: Reserve your ferry with Berisha in advance here, especially during the summertime. We took the ferry on a Friday in September and it was completely full of cars and hikers.

Spend some hours exploring Prizren

After a gorgeous ferry ride on Komani Lake and some time on the road your Balkan road trip takes you to a new city in a new country, Prizren in Kosovo. We parked our car somewhere along Saracet which is super close to where all the action is. You have to pay cash in euros when you come back, so keep a few handy when you return to your car.

Now Prizren is quite a small city, so allocating a few hours here before you hit the road again is enough. But, Prizren is really beautiful!! Explore the charming Old Town, admire the Ottoman architecture and visit the Sinan Pasha Mosque. And don’t forget to head up to the iconic Prizren Fortress, that offers panoramic views of the city.

For a pretty decent cup of coffee with views of the river head to Prince Coffee House. And for lunch or dinner have a nice sit down at the restaurant of Hotel Tiffany.

Final Stretch of Your Balkan Road Trip to Skopje

Continue your drive to Skopje (about 2 hours), reflecting upon the incredible experiences and memories you’ve collected throughout your Balkan road trip.

How to Extend Your Balkan Road Trip

On this Balkan road trip you can get a good taster of North Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo, but for a more in depth visit you can easily extend this trip to two or even three weeks. Check out these suggestions:

• Add a full day in Skopje before or after you start your Balkan road trip. Go on a walking tour to discover all that the city has to offer.
• Add one or two extra nights in Ohrid | Use the extra time for a day trip to Bitola with a visit to the Roman archaeological park of Hyraclea Lyncestis. Use the other day to check out Prespa Lake and take some time to chill out around Lake Ohrid.
• Spend an extra night in Berat and use the extra time to visit Osumi Canyon.
• Stay an extra day in Tirana | You could visit Durres on a day trip and maybe go on a food tour in Tirana for a culinary discovery.
• Add Shkoder to your itinerary | On your Balkan road trip loop add an extra stop with a night in Shkoder. Rent a bike here and cycle along the lake’s shores.
• Add days in Kosovo | To discover more of Kosovo you can add a night in Prizren and another in Pristina.

As you can see plenty of options to turn a Balkan road trip from one week into two or even three weeks. We combined this road trip with another road trip in Slovenia that also took a week. We used Air Serbia to fly us from Skopje to Ljubljana with a full day stopover in Belgrade.

Alternatively, base yourself for a week-long Mediterranean Escape in Dubrovnik and don’t just visit this beautiful city, but also allow for trips into Montenegro and Bosnia.

Final thoughts

We had a truly wonderful week driving around these three Balkan countries and enjoyed the mix of cities, nature and architecture. Combined with the delicious food and friendly locals this was a trip to remember for a long time.

Let me know what you think about this Balkan Road Trip in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article, then please sign up to my newsletter to stay updated on new itineraries, city trips, overland adventures and lots more. And don’t forget to follow me on instagram. Thanks!