Lisbon is one of Europe’s most captivating capitals: hilly, soulful and full of history. I’ve been to Lisbon three times. Once alone, once with friends and most recently with my husband as the final stop on a longer Portugal road trip. Each visit has revealed something new.
This guide pulls together the best of all three trips. From grand viewpoints and ancient castles to neighbourhood record shops and rooftop bars, here’s everything you need.
Also read: The Portugal Itinerary Guide | A Flexible 2–3 Week Road Trip
Lisbon at a Glance
- Days needed: 3 to 5 days for the city, plus extra days for day trips
- Best time to visit: April to June, or September to October
- Best neighbourhood to stay: Anjos or Arroios for a local feel; Alfama, Chiado or Bairro Alto for the centre
- Don’t miss: Pastel de nata at Manteigaria, Tram 28, the castle views, a fado performance, the miradouros, a day trip to Sintra
How Many Days Do You Need in Lisbon?
Three days is the minimum to cover the main neighbourhoods without feeling rushed. Five days is the sweet spot. You’ll explore the city properly and still fit in a day trip to Sintra or Cascais.
A full week and you can explore the eastern neighbourhoods of Beato and Marvila and add a further afield day trip or two. And you’ll still have time to slow down and actually enjoy the city.
A Note on Getting Around Lisbon
Lisbon’s hills are legendary. The city’s historic funiculars were one of the most charming ways to tackle them. Sadly, as of mid-2026, all three historic funiculars remain closed. The Glória, the Bica and the Lavra all shut following a serious accident on the Glória line in September 2025. The investigation is ongoing and no reopening date has been announced. The newer Graça funicular, opened in 2024, is still running.
For getting up and down the hills in the meantime, Tram 28 covers much of the same ground. The streets are also walkable, if steep. Uber, Bolt and e-scooters fill the gaps nicely.
Where to Stay in Lisbon
Anjos and Arroios are my recommendation for anyone wanting a more local experience. These up-and-coming neighbourhoods sit just north of the historic centre. Plenty of local eateries, independent shops and bars, with easy tram and metro connections to everything else.
We stayed at Numa Lisbon Anjos, a well-designed aparthotel that worked perfectly as a base. Particularly useful on the last day when we could drop our bags before heading to the airport.
For those who prefer to be right in the centre, Alfama, Chiado and Bairro Alto put you within walking distance of most main sights. The trade-off is noise, crowds and higher prices.
A few hotel options worth considering:
- Bairro Alto Hotel | The grande dame of Lisbon boutique hotels, in a beautifully restored 18th century building in the heart of Bairro Alto. The rooftop bar BAHR alone is worth knowing about (more on that below).
- Pousada Alfama | A charming small hotel in Alfama located in a renovated historic building with some rooms offering balconies or terraces with amazing views.
- Numa Lisbon Anjos | Our choice. A great option for those wanting a neighbourhood feel with aparthotel flexibility. Modern, comfortable and well priced.
Visiting Lisbon as Part of a Broader Portugal Trip
Lisbon makes a natural start or finale to a longer Portugal itinerary. We arrived after travelling through Porto, Coimbra, Évora and the Algarve. It felt like a fitting conclusion to the journey.
If you’re planning a wider Portugal trip, I’ve written guides to Porto, the Douro Valley, Lagos, the Seven Hanging Valleys and Cabo São Vicente, plus a full two to three week Portugal itinerary.
And there’s even more, just check out my complete Portugal Travel Guide and plan your own trip to Portugal.
Parque Eduardo VII and the Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon
Start at the Top: Parque Eduardo VII Viewpoint
A great way to begin any Lisbon visit is at the top of Parque Eduardo VII. The large formal park runs north from the Marquês de Pombal roundabout.
The observation deck at the top gives you an immediate sense of how the city is laid out. It stretches down towards the Tagus with the 25 de Abril bridge visible in the distance.
The enormous Portuguese flag here makes it a satisfying, photogenic starting point. From there, walk the full length of the park downhill towards Avenida da Liberdade.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum and CAM
Just a short walk from the park, the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum and the adjacent Centro de Arte Moderna (CAM) are two of the finest art institutions in Portugal. The Gulbenkian covers ancient Egyptian artefacts through to Impressionist paintings. CAM focuses on modern and contemporary Portuguese art.
If you can only do one, choose CAM. It offers context on modern Portuguese history through posters, comic strips and graphic design. It helps make sense of the city and country you’re visiting. A genuinely enriching way to spend a morning.
Tip: If you happen to be here around lunchtime, or just in need of a drink, check out the terrace of Linha d’Água.
Avenida da Liberdade, Baixa and Rossio, Lisbon
Walk Down Avenida da Liberdade
From Parque Eduardo VII, Avenida da Liberdade runs straight downhill towards the city centre. It’s lined with luxury shops and heavy traffic. Don’t just follow the main boulevard: duck into the side streets on either side. That’s where you’ll find some of the city’s best independent coffee spots.
Two worth seeking out along the way: 94° Specialty Coffee Brand is arguably the best cup of coffee in the city. Fabrika Specialty Coffee & Roastery on the Avenida itself is a reliable Lisbon staple.
Rossio Square: The Heart of Baixa
At the bottom of the avenue, Rossio Square opens up with a generous, airy feel. The distinctive wavy black and white cobblestone paving is one of Lisbon’s most iconic surfaces.
The square’s shape is no accident, as it was once used for bullfighting. The two ornate fountains you see today were later additions to what had been an arena. Now students come here for university initiation traditions, which I think is a much better use of this space.
Things to Do in Bairro Alto and Chiado, Lisbon
Up to Bairro Alto
From Rossio, the Elevador da Glória would normally take you straight up to Bairro Alto. As noted above, it remains closed following the 2025 accident. Instead, head up via Figueira square and through Chiado on foot. Alternatively, take the Elevador de Santa Justa to the top and walk across.
The streets climbing through Chiado are lined with excellent independent shops: design, fashion and vinyl records. Two record shops worth knowing are Tubitek and Louie Louie, both well stocked and worth a browse.
Pastel de Nata at Manteigaria
Set your navigation to Manteigaria and don’t skip it. This is the best pastel de nata in Lisbon. That is not a casual claim in a city that takes its custard tarts extremely seriously. There are no seats here, so grab your tart and coffee at the counter and eat standing. You won’t need long.
BAHR Rooftop Bar at the Bairro Alto Hotel
For a proper sit-down with a view, head to BAHR, the rooftop bar of the Bairro Alto Hotel. The terrace looks out over the Tagus, the 25 de Abril bridge and the Christ the King statue across the water. The service is excellent.
The drinks are on the pricier side, but complimentary nuts arrive with your order and the setting more than justifies the bill. Book ahead or arrive early as it fills up fast.
Bairro Alto by Day and Night
During the day Bairro Alto is relatively quiet. After dark it comes alive with restaurants, bars and fado houses. It has a slightly edgy energy at night, which is part of its charm.
For a fado performance, Retiro dos Sentidos may not top the Google Maps restaurant rankings. But the performance we attended with friends was genuinely heartfelt and memorable. Fado is best experienced as an emotional experience rather than a polished tourist show. This place delivers exactly that. Alfama is another Lisbon neighbourhood with excellent fado restaurants.
Other sights in Bairro Alto worth seeking out: the Igreja de São Roque, one of the most ornate churches in the city despite its plain facade. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a garden viewpoint with sweeping views east. And the Ruínas do Carmo, the haunting roofless remains of a gothic convent destroyed by the 1755 earthquake.
The Triangle, Lisbon
Between Bairro Alto and Chiado lies a small area sometimes called the Triangle. It’s a cluster of independent shops, concept stores and some of the city’s best coffee and record shops. And it really rewards a slow wander.
Look out for Hello, Kristof!, one of our favourite coffee stops in the city. The area is quieter than Chiado and less famous than Bairro Alto. And that combination makes it exactly the kind of place worth knowing about.
Things to Do in Alfama, Lisbon: Castle, Cathedral and Viewpoints
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte: The Highest Viewpoint in Lisbon
Start the Alfama day at the top. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is the highest viewpoint in the city. The climb involves a good number of stairs. But the panorama from the top is extraordinary, where most of Lisbon spreads out below, with the river in the distance and the castle visible on the hill across.
Tip: There’s a lemonade truck at the top that does a brisk trade. Rightly so.
Miradouro da Graça
Just downhill from Senhora do Monte, Miradouro da Graça offers a slightly lower but equally lovely vantage point. A small church sits beside it.
There’s a café terrace here also for sitting and taking in the view. A good place to rest before continuing down to the castle.
São Jorge Castle: Lisbon’s Defining Landmark
São Jorge Castle is a non-negotiable stop on any Lisbon visit. The views from the walls explain exactly why it was built here. From the top you can see the entire Tagus estuary and the approaches to the city in every direction.
Originally Roman and later expanded by the Moors, the castle is one of the defining landmarks of Lisbon’s skyline. Walk the ramparts, explore the towers and take your time with the views.
São Vicente de Fora Monastery
Near the castle, the São Vicente de Fora Monastery is worth a visit for the interior alone. But the showstopper is the rooftop. Climb to the top for sweeping views over the city’s terracotta rooftops towards the river. One of those spots that never gets old.
National Pantheon and Mercado de Santa Clara
Behind the monastery you can take a look at the National Pantheon where national celebrities are buried. And just a few steps further you can see a stunning mural made of modern azulejo tiles. The Mural de Azulejos – Botto Machado is a little harder to see on Tuesday and Saturday though, when it’s obstructed by the Mercado de Santa Clara, a major flea market.
The Lisbon Cathedral: Sé de Lisboa
Continue downhill through the labyrinthine streets of Alfama. Getting pleasantly lost is both inevitable and enjoyable. Eventually you’ll arrive at the Sé de Lisboa.
The cathedral is one of the oldest buildings in the city, begun in 1147 on the site of a former mosque. The exterior is stern and fortress-like. The interior is considerably more serene.
Miradouro das Portas do Sol and Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Right next to the cathedral, these two connected viewpoints look out over Alfama’s red rooftops towards the river and the bridge.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia is one of the most beautiful spots in the city. Covered in azulejo tile panels and framed by bougainvillea. On a clear day with no cruise ships blocking the river view, it’s outstanding.
Tram 28: Lisbon’s Most Iconic Ride
Tram 28 appears on every Lisbon itinerary and for good reason. It threads through Chiado, Baixa, Alfama and past several of the best miradouros. That makes it both practical and one of the most atmospheric rides in the city.
The trick is where you board. Most visitors join at the main stops in Chiado where queues form quickly and the tram fills up fast. We boarded much further along the route at Calçada do Combro (in the Triangle), found two window seats easily and set off in relative peace. A few stops later, queues at every subsequent stop filled every remaining space. The lesson: board early along the route for a completely different experience.
We rode it all the way back towards Anjos, getting off near Intendente and walking to our hotel. It’s a slow way to travel. And on Tram 28, that’s entirely the point.
Baixa and Praça do Comércio, Lisbon
Praça do Comércio: Lisbon’s Grand Riverside Square
Praça do Comércio is one of the most impressive public spaces in Lisbon. The scale of the square and the elegance of the surrounding arcaded buildings are genuinely striking. It opens directly onto the Tagus, giving it a spacious waterfront feel.
On a good day you might catch live music here. On most days you’ll be offered various substances by street vendors. Enjoy the architecture and keep walking.
Elevador de Santa Justa
The Elevador de Santa Justa is a wrought iron lift built in 1902. It connects Baixa with the upper streets of Chiado and is a beautiful piece of industrial architecture. Worth riding at least once. Queues can be long: either arrive early or factor in the wait.
Things to Do in Belém, Lisbon
Belém deserves at least a full day. Getting there is half the fun when you board the hop-on hop-off Lisboat at the Terreiro do Paço ferry terminal.
The best way to cover the ground between sights is by e-scooter along the riverside boulevard. Here are the Belém highlights:
- LX Factory: A former industrial complex turned creative market with murals, independent shops and restaurants. Busiest later in the day, so arrive before midday if you want space to breathe.
- Miradouro de Santo Amaro: An underrated viewpoint most visitors walk straight past. Picture-perfect views of the 25 de Abril bridge. There’s a coffee roastery here too, Torra Roasting & Coffee, for a caffeine stop.
- MAAT: The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology, right on the waterfront. One of the most visually striking modern buildings in Lisbon and an excellent museum inside.
- Tower of Belém: The 16th century UNESCO-listed tower is one of Lisbon’s most recognisable landmarks. Note that it is currently under renovation.
- Jerónimos Monastery: The other UNESCO-listed highlight of Belém, and arguably more impressive than the tower. The Manueline architecture is extraordinary.
- Padrão dos Descobrimentos: The Monument to the Discoveries commemorates the Portuguese Age of Exploration. The structure itself is striking, and you can take the lift up to look down over the world map laid out in front of it.
- MAC/CCB: The Museum of Contemporary Art has a strong collection of Portuguese and international artists. A quieter, less crowded alternative to the bigger institutions.
- Pastéis de Belém: The original home of the pastel de nata, and a worthy rival to Manteigaria. The place is larger than it looks from the front: keep walking back and you’ll find plenty of seating.
A dedicated Belém guide is coming soon with full detail on every sight.
Estrela and Campo de Ourique, Lisbon
Mercado de Campo de Ourique: The Local Alternative
Skip the touristy Time Out Mercado da Ribeira. Head instead to Mercado de Campo de Ourique. It’s more local, more affordable and considerably less crowded. A proper neighbourhood market where Lisbon residents actually shop and eat.
Basílica da Estrela
Just nearby, the Basílica da Estrela is an 18th century church with a rooftop offering one of the city’s finest panoramas. Barely any tourists make it up here. The view feels like a genuine discovery.
São Bento Palace: Portugal’s Parliament
A short walk from the Basílica da Estrela, the São Bento Palace is one of the most impressive buildings in the city and one that many visitors walk straight past without knowing what it is.
It started life in 1598 as a Benedictine monastery, was damaged in the 1755 earthquake and was converted into the seat of the Portuguese Parliament in 1834. And it has served that purpose ever since.
Access to the interior is limited since the building is in active use, but guided tours run on select days and are worth booking if you can.
Tip: Approach the São Bento Palace from the colourful streets of the Triangle neighbourhood for fantastic shots.
Things to Do in Beato and Marvila, Lisbon
If you have extra time in Lisbon, the eastern neighbourhoods of Beato and Marvila are well worth the journey. This is Lisbon’s industrial east, repurposed into a creative district of breweries, galleries and street art.
National Azulejo Museum: A Tile Lover’s Dream
On the way east, stop at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. It’s housed inside a beautiful former monastery. The collection traces the history of Portuguese tile-making from the 15th century to the present day. The monastery cloisters lined with azulejo panels are extraordinary.
Craft Beer at Dois Corvos and Fermentage
In Marvila, Dois Corvos Marvila Taproom and Fermentage are both excellent craft breweries with taprooms worth visiting. Local, relaxed and a long way from the tourist trail.
Art Galleries: Galeria Francisco Fino and Underdogs
Two galleries worth knowing in the area. Galeria Francisco Fino focuses on contemporary art with an international programme. Underdogs sits at the crossroads of street art and gallery culture and is one of the most interesting art spaces in the city.
Where to Eat and Drink in Lisbon
There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in Portugal’s capital, including many excellent choices. So there’s no need to eat bad food. To help you with a few great options, I’ve listed some of my favourites below.
Restaurants
- Tati: Our favourite dinner of the trip. A neighbourhood restaurant in Anjos with super friendly staff, excellent natural wines and seasonal Portuguese food. Fresh, light and sooooo satisfying. Tati is loosely affiliated with Tua Madre in Évora, which explains immediately why we loved it. Book ahead.
- Pastaria: A brilliant pasta restaurant near our hotel in Anjos. Outstanding pasta, great service and an excellent wine list. Simple done properly.
- Retiro dos Sentidos: Our fado dinner recommendation in Bairro Alto. Don’t be put off by the mixed Google reviews. The performance is heartfelt and the experience is memorable. Exactly what a fado night should be.
- Trinca: A small, buzzy restaurant on a residential street in Anjos with a short, ever-changing menu of small plates that draws heavily on Portuguese, South American and Japanese influences. Book ahead or arrive early.
- Mila Intendente: A contemporary all-day brunch café on Avenida Almirante Reis, right in the Intendente neighbourhood. The menu is plant-forward and health-conscious, with standout dishes like the signature Crab Eggs Benedict and a strong lineup of smoothie bowls and avocado toasts.
Coffee and Bakeries
- 94° Specialty Coffee Brand: Arguably the best coffee in Lisbon. Seek it out along Avenida da Liberdade.
- Fabrika Specialty Coffee & Roastery: A reliable Lisbon staple on the Avenida with excellent coffee and a relaxed atmosphere.
- Hello, Kristof!: Our pick in the Triangle neighbourhood. One of the best flat whites in the city.
- Torra Roasting & Coffee: The roastery café near Miradouro de Santo Amaro in Belém. Good coffee with a great view.
- Do Beco Estefânia: An artisanal bakery and specialty coffee spot in Estefânia. Excellent brunch but arrive early. The queues build fast.
- Manteigaria: The best pastel de nata in Lisbon. No seats, no fuss. Just a perfect tart and a good espresso.
- Pastéis de Belém: The famous original and a worthy rival. Go with an open mind and compare the two.
Bars and Nightlife
- BAHR: The rooftop bar of the Bairro Alto Hotel. Outstanding views, excellent service, complimentary nuts. Book ahead or arrive early.
- Amor Records: A vinyl shop and cocktail bar combined, near our hotel in Anjos. Hip, local and exactly the kind of place you stumble upon and immediately love. Great drinks, great crowd, great records.
- Drama Bar: An LGBTQ+ bar in the Anjos area with a genuinely welcoming and easy-going atmosphere. They run events and themed nights throughout the week. Check what’s on before you go. We were offered a free shot on arrival and had a great time.
Day Trips from Lisbon
Lisbon is an excellent base for day trips. Here are the options worth building into your visit:
- Sintra: The most popular day trip from Lisbon and deservedly so. The palaces, gardens and forested hills are extraordinary. Around 40 minutes by train from Rossio station. A full Sintra guide is coming soon.
- Cascais: A relaxed coastal town about an hour from Lisbon by train, with beaches, a pretty old town and a completely different pace from the capital. Full guide coming soon.
- Évora: A walled Roman city with one of the most atmospheric old towns in Portugal, including a bone chapel that is genuinely unforgettable. Around 90 minutes from Lisbon by bus or car. Or you can join this guided tour that also includes a visit to the hilltop village of Monsaraz. Read my full Évora guide here.
- Coimbra: Portugal’s great university city, with a stunning medieval library and a historic old town. Around two hours by train. Read my full Coimbra guide here.
Practical Tips for Visiting Lisbon
Getting There
Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS) is well connected to cities across Europe and beyond. The metro red line runs directly from the airport into the city centre in around 25 minutes. Taxis and Uber are available outside arrivals too.
Getting Around
The city centre is very walkable, though the hills make some routes more demanding than they look on a map. Tram 28 is a must-ride. The metro covers the broader city efficiently. Uber, Bolt and e-scooters fill the gaps. As of mid-2026, the historic Glória, Bica and Lavra funiculars all remain closed with no confirmed reopening date. The Graça funicular is operating normally.
When to Visit
April to June is ideal when it’s warm, relatively uncrowded and with the city looking its best. September and October are equally good. July and August however, are hot and very busy, particularly around the main tourist areas.
Money
Portugal uses the euro, but cards are accepted almost everywhere. Lisbon is more expensive than Porto but still reasonable by Western European capital standards. Eat in neighbourhood restaurants rather than tourist areas and you’ll spend considerably less.
Staying connected with a Saily eSIM
eSIMs are the easiest option for staying connected. Saily is my preferred travel eSIM provider and if you use code MARTIN84627 upon check-out you’ll receive $5 off your first purchase.
Also check out my eSIM guide where I compare Saily, Airalo and Holafly.
Travel Insurance
Portugal is considered one of Europe’s safest countries. Normal travel awareness is enough, especially in busy tourist areas. For peace of mind though I always have travel insurance. Check out Heymondo travel insurance and get 5% off through this link.
Final Thoughts
Lisbon keeps giving, no matter how many times you visit. The viewpoints never get old, and the food gets better every time you discover a new neighbourhood restaurant. Three trips in and I’m already thinking about the next one.
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